Saturday July 28, 2007

DATE: Saturday July 28, 2007
ROUTE: Kumkoy, Turkey to Istanbul, Turkey
DISTANCE: 10 miles
TIME: 1h 15m
CEG: 700’
WEATHER: Beautiful!

Technically, Kumkoy is part of metropolitan Istanbul. Our itinerary showed an 8.5 mile ride to the dock, a 75 minute ferry ride down the Bosforous, and a 1.5 mile walk/ride to the hotel. Our privately chartered ferry (very decadent!) was scheduled to leave the dock at 11:00am. We had a lazy morning and left the hotel on our newly decorated bicycles at 9:00am. Dan, Jane, Bill, Rick, Kathie, and Fritz decided that I should lead. I don’t think they knew how slowly I would climb the one long, steep hill. Only Kathie broke rank --- she couldn’t deal with the pain and suffering! We had a breathtaking descent to a charming village at the juncture of the Black Sea and the Bosforous.

With an hour to wait, we sat in the sun at a waterfront bar. Finally we loaded the bikes and were on our way. The trip down the Bosforous was a thrilling and perfect introduction to this fascinating city. I parked my bike in the prow of the ferry and enjoyed the sights on my comfortable seat.

Michele was waiting for us at the ferry dock and we followed his lead to the hotel. The traffic was very hectic and we were all perfectly content to ride a little and walk alot. Our hotel is very nice --- perfectly located near the Grand Bazaar, The Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace, and the Hagia Sofia.

We walked to our dinner restaurant through the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market. Both will be closed on Sunday so I will save my shopping until Monday. Tomorrow Sahli will take us on a city walk to all the important sites of the city. I think I will visit the Turkish Baths and maybe even take a nap.

This will be my final log. For the next 2 days I will enjoy the city, break down my bicycle, and prepare for my flight. I leave Istanbul at 6:00am July 31 and arrive in Redmond at 2:15pm the same day. To get to the airport and through security in Turkey, I am advised to leave the hotel 4 hours before my flight departs. All in all, I will be in transit 24 hours --- undoubtedly the hardest part of this entire adventure.

Thank you so much for your interest and support. It’s been fun sharing my journey with friends and family. I’ll see you soon.

Love,
Elizabeth

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Friday July 27, 2007

 

DATE: Friday July 27, 2007
ROUTE: Vize, Turkey to Kumkoy, Turkey
DISTANCE: 80 miles
TIME: 7h 55m
CEG: 5000’
WEATHER: 85 degrees moderate head/cross winds

This was the best riding day of the trip. The wind was still when I departed at 6:30am. When it started to ruffle the trees there was intermittent protection. The temperatures did not get above the mid 80s. The scenery was varied and stunning. What a way to end our expedition!

I climbed most of the morning --- some ascending rollers, some major hills, and some wicked knobs. Stefania joined me as sweep at about 8:00am. She is great company.
We met two French cyclists just starting out their journey from Istanbul to Paris. Stefania stopped to compare routes and I continued on, knowing she would catch me soon. I stopped at a corner near a little store to wait for her --- intending to have a drink and a snack when she showed up. A young boy approached me with a bottle of water --- sent out by the store proprietor. He would not let me pay. As I continued to wait for Stefania, the proprietor came out of his store and led me to a table and chair in the shade. He invited me to sit down and wait in comfort. Since I know only 2 words in Turkish (hello and thank you), we were communicating with gestures. I sat down, and he placed a rose in front of me. When Stefania arrived, he brought her water and a rose as well. We were both very touched by his generosity.

The next portion of the route was tough --- but elating. We climbed some more and after I crested a long hill, I got my first glimpse of the Black Sea. What a thrill! Stefania received a phone call with some disappointing news: Monica was pulling all of us off the road at the 80 mile mark due to dangerous traffic. They would shuttle us the final 20 miles into Kumkoy. Since the van can only carry 5 passengers at a time, Stefania and I decided to ride as far as was safe and wait for the van to return from its first trip. We discovered the traffic problem --- a huge construction project involving 200 or more dump trucks (all new) driving both directions at breakneck speeds on our narrow, peaceful, beautiful road. We found out later that an entire hillside was being reshaped for a housing development. The trucks are paid by the load and we witnessed many instances of trucks vying for the best position. Beside the road, herds of water buffalo grazed untethered on what could easily be their last meal. A cow wandered out in the road and narrowly missed being hit. A car was not so fortunate. It was a monster truck derby for real.

Stefania and I found a place to wait for the van outside a modest little bar in a tiny quiet village made chaotic and filthy by the truck activity. Once again, we were welcomed by the proprietor with water, Coke, and tea --- all delivered by a young boy. We were not allowed to pay.

We finally arrived in Kumkoy at 6:30pm. Our hotel was in a great location, perched on a hill above the Black Sea. After dinner we walked down through this throbbing beach town for a little wading in the water. On the return, I spotted a vendor who had Diet Coke. I remembered, too late, that I had left my money in the hotel. No one else had money either. The young man insisted that I take the Diet Coke anyway.

Later, I asked our guide about the astounding generosity of the Turkish people. For the last 5 days all of us have continuously received enthusiastic support from the people we pass. We are welcomed as if we are long lost family finally coming home. We have been invited to share food and drink with complete strangers. Sahli explained that, especially in the small villages, the people are honored to receive travelers. Allah has caused our paths to cross, and they are pleased to make our journey more comfortable. Most villages still have guest quarters above the village coffee house. It is offered to those who are passing through needing a place to sleep.

This is truly an exotic and wonderful country.

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Thursday, July 26, 2007

DATE: Thursday July 27, 2007
ROUTE: Edirne, Turkey to Vize, Turkey
DISTANCE: 73 miles
TIME: 7h 35m
CEG: 3740
WEATHER: 89 degrees head/cross winds 30mph steady, 40mph gusts


The heat wave is over for the moment. CNN says that over 500 have died in
Hungary and Romania from the elevated temperatures --- 120 degrees in some
areas. CNN also says that a new wave is coming this weekend. Tomorrow is
our last full day of cycling so at least we will be off the road.

With the decline in temperatures came a vicious wind. Today’s route sent
us east. The wind was from the NNE. So we rode in a cross or head wind
for most of the way. My arms are strained from gripping the handlebars
and struggling to keep on the road. On the flat I pushed to keep above
8mph. Ascending, I wobbled at 3.4mph. Descending, I pedaled hard to top
12mph. To give you an idea of the power of the wind, picture this: On a
short part of a long hill the road turned south. Yea! A tailwind to help
me climb! I COASTED up the hill at 19mph! Yes, really!

Because of the wind, I concentrated on getting to Vize. I have no tales
to tell and very few pictures.

Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be the same, the route longer. 90
miles. Oh, well. As Rick says, “It is what it is.”

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Wednesday July 25, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday July 25, 2007
ROUTE: Edirne, Turkey
DISTANCE: Rest Day
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER: mid 100s

Edirne is a very well preserved Ottoman city with impressive mosques, teeming bazaars, and elegant, domestic architecture. It is full of sights and sounds different from any of the twelve countries through which we have cycled.

I was awakened this morning at 4:55am by the reedy incantation of the call to prayer. We gathered in our courtyard at 9:00am for our city tour. Sahli is a wealth of knowledge in history, politics, literature, architecture, and current events. His gentle manner and subtle sense of humor make him a very informative and enjoyable guide. He took us through the bizaar, past the Eski Camii and into the Selimiye Camii. We wound our way through the narrow streets filled with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and a huge variety of pastries and candy.

Chantal, Jane and I ate lunch at a tiny restaurant where we pointed to the food items we wanted. I had grilled chicken. rice, and garbonzo beans --- all delicious. I spent the afternoon getting caught up on my blog. I now leave for the nearby internet café to post --- at least to try to post. I believe I go past a pastrie shop with a variety of baklava --- my favorite treat. Then it will be time to get organized for our hot, long ride tomorrow. We will be in Istanbul in only 3 days. Hard to believe!

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Tuesday July 24, 2007

 

DATE: Tuesday July 24, 2007
ROUTE: Kardzhali, Bulgaria to Edirne, Turkey through Greece
DISTANCE: 82 miles
TIME: 7h 15m
CEG: 3500’
WEATHER: HOT HOTTER HOTTEST 111 degrees

Well, as you can see, the temperatures have not decreased. Today was a record for me --- and one I do not want to break. 111 degrees makes you feel like you are the Thanksgiving turkey roasting in the oven. Half of the group made other plans: taking the local bus to Edirne, cycling to Greece then taking the van, or riding in the van to Greece then cycling the rest of the way.

I had been looking forward to this: three countries in one day. Nancy was thrilled with her birthday helmet and was determined to wear it as long as it would last.

We traveled through the Balkan foothills with beautiful views in every direction. We saw many more wagons pulled by donkeys than cars. As we got closer to Turkey, the Moorish influence became more and more apparent. After 55 miles, we were at the Greek border. The temperature was 105 degrees. We said goodbye to Alec, our Bulgarian guide, and had a quick drink. We expected the next 20 miles in Greece to be hot but not too hard. The route was on a rolling, lightly traveled, smooth freeway with wide shoulders. But the heat on the black pavement really had us suffering. My temperature gauge registered 111 degrees. Yikes! At 13 miles a gas station with air conditioning brought us back to life. We drank sodas and water and cooled off. Before we departed we soaked our heads and shirts. We reluctantly went back in the oven for 5 more miles then exited the freeway to cross the border into Turkey.

Entering Turkey was similar to entering Russia: waiting while nothing seemed to happen. We were required to buy a Turkish Visa for $20 and have our passports inspected and stamped. Things progressed slowly but smoothly due to the help of our new Turkish guide, Sahli. Things did not go so well for the van. It seems some obscure paperwork concerning spare bicycle parts was required. We said goodbye to Michele and Sahli and hoped we would see them, the van, and our luggage at the hotel when we arrived.

Only 6 miles to our hotel --- a piece of cake! Not so. Bridges undergoing restoration, 4 miles of the hated cobblestones, and chaotic traffic slowed our progress and often had us walking. The temperature had decreased to a bearable 108 degrees. Nancy, Stefania, and I were warmly greeted with cold water and cold sodas. The van had not arrived so everyone sat in the courtyard and told stories of the day’s adventures. When the van finally arrived, we quickly unloaded the luggage and headed for the showers.

We are really in an exotic and fascinating place! Our hotel was built in the 16th century and used as a caravan stop. It has been beautifully restored with functioning air conditioning. It is located near the center of the city next to the Selimiye Camii, one of Turkey’s finest mosques. The mosque is the masterpiece of Mimar Sinan (1490-1588), court architect to three sultans.

We ate dinner in a waterfront garden restaurant with a lovely view of the Roman Bridge spanning the Meric River. This was the same bridge we had crossed entering the city --- under construction and open only to pedestrians and bicycles. We celebrated Nancy’s birthday with wine, cake, and song. The shadow photo was taken walking back to the hotel with the moon and streetlight behind us. Michele is pretending to douse my head with water --- a very common occurrence these last many days.

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Monday July 23, 2007

 

DATE: Monday July 23, 2007
ROUTE: Plovdiv, Bulgaria to Kardzhali, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 69 miles
TIME: 6h 10m
CEG: 4200’
WEATHER: HOT HOT HOT 105 degrees

The weather seems to be the headline news worldwide and also here on the tour. The temperature just keeps rising and the hills just keep coming.

The morning was beautiful. I savored the perfect temperature (75 degrees) knowing it would soon be sweltering. The two major climbs through the Balkan Mountains were in the first 35 miles. I stopped at every fountain to douse my head and soak my shirt. This was also a chance to talk (or at least try) with the local villagers or truck drivers who are filling up bottles for their own use.

The last 10 miles, in the heat of the day, had 3 wicked hills --- each successively longer and steeper. At the start of the third hill I made prompt use of a fountain. Even though this hill had a slope of 10%, I was pretty comfortable inching my way up. Overheated cars and trucks were languishing on the shoulder. At the top I was rewarded with a 4 mile downhill which took me to the hotel.

Kathie, Chantal, Jane, and I spent time after dinner decorating Nancy’s helmet. She will celebrate her birthday tomorrow and we want her looking her best.

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Sunday, July 22, 2007

DATE: Sunday July 22, 2007
ROUTE: Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria to Plovdiv, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 63 miles
TIME: 4h 25m
CEG: 1101’
WEATHER: HOT! low 100s

This was a fairly easy day and welcomed by all. Everyone rode the whole
way – the first time in a long time! A pothole almost put Dan in the van
but Michele swapped wheels and he was back on route in short order.

We set out from Koprivshtitsa at 8am in clean, cool (67 degrees) mountain
air. We ascended 4 miles then descended 8 miles. I like those
proportions! The smooth road was interspersed with potholes, broken
pavement, and sand. I kept my speed in check --- which took some
discipline. Dan hit a pothole and damaged both wheels. Michele swapped
wheels and sent Dan on his way.

After we reached the valley floor, the route was flat and hot. I took
every opportunity to cool off in village fountains. Plovdiv is the
oldest town in Bulgaria and one of the oldest cities in the world. It was
built by the Romans in the 5th century BC. The ruins of the Roman
Amphitheater and Stadium are not far from our hotel.

Alec selected a lovely garden restaurant for our group dinner and arranged
for a folk group to entertain us. It was a wonderful way to end a treat
day of cycling.

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