Saturday July 21, 2007

DATE: Saturday July 21, 2007
ROUTE: Sofia, Bulgaria to Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 67 miles
TIME: 6h 14m
CEG: 4130’
WEATHER: Hot high 90s

We left Sofia together. Monica mounted her red horse and the troops followed her orders without question… At one particularly bad intersection (6 roads converging, cars, busses, street cars, trucks, and pedestrians going every which way) she stopped traffic until all 16 of us made the U-turn bumping over tracks and potholes. It was a sight to behold! The rest of the day was easy by comparison.

After about 12 miles we veered off the main road and started through the rural farmland. In one of the first villages a note to Chantal was added to our arrow directions. The coffee machine had broken at the hotel this morning and we were all concerned lest Chantal go too long without her java jolt.

Today the weather was a bit cooler which helped everyone on the first long, long climb to the summit. I stopped at every creek, faucet, or fountain to dip my shirt and wet my head. The descent was quite spectacular and though it was hard to stop half way down at the monument, I’m glad we did. It had been dedicated just 2 days earlier by the Bulgarian president in honor of the leader of the revolutionaries who expelled the Huns from Bulgaria. Monica, Nancy, and I cooled off in the fresh cold spring water and tried to converse with the attendant. A carload of Bulgarian tourists pulled up and seemed more interested in my bike than the monument. They took many pictures of and with us while they chattered away.

Somewhere along the way, Monica hopped in the van to the hotel to take care of business and I got to ride the rest of the day with our new Italian addition, Stefania.

When we finally reached the valley floor, we stopped for water at a little market. While Stefania and I were waiting with the bikes, we were approached enthusiastically by a big-bellied Speedo-clad man riding a fully loaded bicycle. He had ridden from his home in Poland all the way to Israel and was now almost back home again. Pictures were taken --- but not until our new friend had unfolded his handy Polish Flag. By the way, the Speedo, in reality, was a pair of bike shorts that he pulles into normal position for the picture. He also put on his jersey … to maintain proper decorum, I presume.

Stefania and I climbed the last of the long hills together. A surprise awaited us at the top --- a pipe cascading icy mountain water. We walked in with no hesitation, shoes and all. Two men had set up a table in the shade across the highway and shared their watermelon with us. It was sweet and delicious. We doused ourselves a second time before we headed down hill.

Ten more miles of rollers and we were at the hotel. Koprivshtitsa is known for its traditional Bulgarian architecture and it has several 18th century homes open for viewing. By some stroke of luck, a folk festival was going on. The town was full of music, dancing, and people in traditional costumes. Because the town is at 3100’ in elevation, the temperature was a very pleasant 83 degrees. Dinner was delicious at a local restaurant.

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Friday July 20, 2007

 

DATE: Friday July 20,2007
ROUTE: Sofia, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: Rest Day
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER: HOT! 100s

The weather forecast predicts continued heat. The air conditioning in our 4 star hotel is not working. Our room is on the hot south side, 5th floor. It was 92 degrees last night when we tried to sleep. With the windows open all night it was down to 79 degrees this morning. The hotel has provided fans for the hot rooms. There are no rooms available on the cool side. The management promised that it will be working soon. They are giving us a buffet dinner tonight as an apology. I would prefer a good night’s sleep in a cool room!

Alec, our Bulgarian guide, took us to see the sights of central Sofia. They included Russian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Bulgarian Orthodox churches as well as a Roman church built in the 4th Century, a mosque and a synagogue. Sofia has some interesting and beautiful buildings, but no cohesive charm or central vitality. Construction is going on everywhere. Traffic is chaotic and the air is polluted. I’d like to return in 5 years and see how the city has evolved. Bulgaria just joined the EU on June 1st and I’m sure many things will change.

I returned to the hotel at noon, had a bite to eat, and spent the next couple of hours in the cool basement garage, cleaning my bicycle and helping a little with the others.

Last evening reinforcements arrived from Italy. Stefania joined the crew bringing energy, enthusiasm, experience, and underwear for Michele. Not a moment too soon!

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Thursday July 19, 2007

DATE: Thursday July 19, 2007
ROUTE: Montana, Bulgaria to Sofia, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 82 miles
TIME: 8h 45m
CEG: 5650’
WEATHER: HOT 100s

There are many benefits to being last --- solitude, no pressure to keep up, no group decisions. Today, I left about 10 minutes behind the pack (down to 9 riders due to heat and injuries) and was just starting up the first hill when I met Michele coming down. He was shouting “Bad road, bad road!”. I turned around immediately and for a few moments was at the head of the group. Thus another benefit: letting others test the waters. We diverted to an alternate road and were on our way.

It wasn’t long before I was enjoying the solitude of my own good company on a fresh Bulgarian morning. I was out of the city in just a few miles watching and listening as the rural scene awakened. Michele joined me as sweep and we silently pedaled over the hills. These are the sounds of early morning: roosters crowing, bells on livestock ringing, shepherds and goatherds whistling and crooning to their herds, insects buzzing, wagons groaning and creaking, wooden wheels clattering, dogs barking, and birds singing. As I listen, I concentrate on dodging coffin-sized potholes, swatting insects, finding the right gear, watching the scenery, and looking for places to cool off.

This was a big climbing day through the Balkan Mountains. I don’t mind climbing even though I am excruciatingly slow. I was in my lowest gear traveling at 3.4mph most of a 9 mile ascent. There was little traffic, pretty good road, and amazing views. I do love cycling in the mountains! Michele was very patient with my pace and enjoyed the vistas as mush as I. We both were exuberant after the 2200’ descent. The road surface and the hairpin turns kept my speed under 30mph. The Iskar River and an ice-cold spring awaited us on the valley floor.

We followed the Iskar River gorge through the mountains all the way to Sofia. It was a hilly route up and down the rock walls and, unfortunately, upstream. With about 22 miles left, Monica met us with fresh water and snacks. Michele road to town with Monica to get started on bike work and left me to sweep myself, a job made easier with Michele’s cell phone. Entry into Sofia was taxing with traffic, pollution, and bad roads. Not many of the group cycled the entire route today, and even fewer made it both yesterday and today. A lucky star continues to shine on me --- I’m still healthy and free of injuries.

I ended the day as I started --- in my own good company.

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Wednesday July 18, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday July 18, 2007
ROUTE: Vidin, Bulgaria to Montana, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 96 miles
TIME: 8h 56m
CEG: 4700’
WEATHER: HOT 100s

This is going to be short. I didn’t get to the hotel until 6pm and after showering, laundry, and eating, plus walking down and up 3 flights of stairs three extra times to get the internet code, the air conditioning control, and toilet paper, I’m tired! (oh, my aching knees!)

It was a long one today. Bulgaria is beautiful, hot, and hilly. No one expected such dazzling scenery, debilitating heat, or continuous climbing. Less than half of the group cycled the entire distance due to illness, injuries, or heat.

I started at 7:15am dressed for the desert --- long sleeved white shirt with my washcloth pinned around my neck. I carried lots of water plus an empty coke bottle that I used for wetting the washcloth. There are often communal fountains in the center of villages. I would fill up my bottle several times and completely soak my shirt and head. That’s how I made it.

This part of Bulgaria is very rural and sparsely populated. Much of the work is done by hand. I saw very few cars --- the roads are more often used for herding sheep, cows, and goats. Chickens, donkeys, horses, and dogs are also common sights. The few people I passed were curious but stoic. I had to initiate communication with a smile and a wave before there would be any response.

As often happens in my cycling, I started slowly in the morning, lost energy midday, and finished with strength and enthusiasm. I don’t know from where this “second wind” comes. But it sure comes in handy when it’s 3pm and I still have 30 miles to go!

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Tuesday July 17, 2007

DATE: Tuesday July 17, 2007
ROUTE: Portile de Fier, Romania to Vidin, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 73 miles
TIME: 5h 30m
CEG: 1400’
WEATHER: HOT low 100s

Odd and funny things happened today. I think the heat was affecting all of us --- including the Romanians. We left early in an attempt to get some miles covered in the cool, 75 degree morning. The first 12 miles were on a busy highway used by all sorts of vehicles, from huge semi trucks to wagons pulled by burros. When we turned south, we were told to expect a less busy road but one under heavy construction. The next 50 miles we dodged road crews that were digging, rolling, cutting, scraping, watering, filling and executing all other manner of road destruction and construction. In many, many places there was one lane traffic. In other places the shoulders were reduced to sand and the lanes very narrow. In spite of these challenges, our progress was strong and steady. As usual, Nancy and I were riding at the back of the pack with Monica sweeping.

My impression of Romanians is that they are effusive and exuberant --- at least with their reaction to my bike. Today the response was off the chart. All of the road workers, and there were many of them since much of the work is still done by hand, whistled, shouted and laughed as I cycled by. Shouts of “Buda, Buda” (Go for it!) followed me along. It was really quite incredible. The 3 of us labored up a very steep hill and stopped for water and a treat. We were immediately surrounded by a group of men, women, and children. They wanted to examine my bike closely and even touch it. The three of us became the center of attention --- Monica speaking Italian, Nancy speaking with her hands, and I speaking a little French and Spanish. They were speaking Romanian, of course.

We still had 12 miles to go to get to the ferry that would take us across the Danube to Bulgaria. It was really getting uncomfortably hot. Even wetting our heads gave us little relief. By the time we reached the ferry, all three of us were cooked. The ferry was no where in sight and almost all the other riders had caught the previous ferry. Monica suggested that we take a dip in the Danube, and Nancy and I thought this was a fine idea. We were able to find our sandals in the van and overlook all the obvious reasons not to go into the water --- pollution being first and foremost. It was cool and refreshing and crazy and fun!

The ferry ride was hot, crowded, and stinky; but mercifully short. Passport control was so quick and efficient that even though we cycled the last 4 miles to the hotel we beat the van. We have air conditioning and internet in our room. We can see the Danube from our window. Jane can watch CNN on the TV and I can catch a little of the Tour de France. Goodbye to Romania and welcome to Bulgaria!

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Monday July 16, 2007

 

DATE: Monday July 16, 2007
ROUTE: Radimna Village, Romania to Portile de Fier. Romania
DISTANCE: 83 miles
TIME: 6h 55m
CEG: 2193’
WEATHER: HOT! Low 100s

This is day I’d been anticipating since I signed up for the tour 6 months ago. I was not disappointed. We spent almost the entire day on the beautiful Danube River. The gorge is very much like the Columbia River Gorge separating Oregon and Washington. The steeper more dramatic side is in Serbia (former Yugoslavia) so I was very happy to stay at the water’s edge in Romania rather than climbing the bluffs we could see just across the river. The Danube flows through the gorge formed by the west end of the Transylvanian Alps and the smaller mountain range that connects with the Balkan Mountains to the south. This formation is known as the “Iron Gates” of the Danube..

We only climbed out of the gorge two times. Both ascents were in the afternoon during the high heat of the day. None of us has acclimated to this sudden change in temperature and I, for one, suffered. But it’s good to know that the sun block I have been slathering on religiously finally has some work to do.

As far as road conditions go, today we had everything. Good road, bad road, really bad road, good gravel, bad gravel and really bad gravel.. We’re all improving with our bicycle handling skills. Almost every bridge was under construction due to the devastating floods of the last two years. The traffic was light until the final 9 miles where we had to eke out our space amongst trucks, busses, and cars.

Our hotel is very comfortable with air conditioning and a view of the river. I only wish there were more than one computer for all the guests --- no wi-fi or ethernet for the 4 bloggers.

Thanks to Nancy for sharing her pictures.

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Sunday July 15, 2007

 

DATE: Sunday July 15, 2007
ROUTE: Timisoara, Romania to Radimna Village, Romania
DISTANCE: 90 miles
TIME: 6h 55m
CEG: 2610’
WEATHER: HOT! 90s

Today’s ride can be divided into three parts.

We left Timisoara under blue skies accompanied by a fresh, light breeze. Being Sunday, the traffic was light and it seemed we had the city to ourselves. The first 30 miles were on an excellent flat road with dismal scenery. Fallow fields were interspersed with fields of weeds and fields of stunted corn and sunflowers. I pedaled fast just to cover the miles.

The scenery became more interesting when we got to Moravita, right on the Serbian border. We turned east and followed the border for about 40 miles through rolling hills and productive farms. However, the road conditions deteriorated considerably, as did my speed. I took out my camera to snap a picture and found that the battery had not re-charged in the outlet last night. Nancy offered to take pictures with her camera and share them with me. It’s a good thing she’d so generous because by this time we were far behind the pack in our usual position.

The final 20 miles cut through the high hills of southwest Romania. We had one big climb of 3 miles which wouldn’t have been too hard except for the heat. I had to stop to after 2 miles to cool off. My computer noted the temperature at 94 degrees. There was no breeze but every other switchback had us in the shade. We ended the day with a 3 mile descent. This would have been great fun except the road conditions had me braking to keep my speed under 30 mph.

We were told that this hotel was the only one in the area that could accommodate our group --- and not to expect too much. No internet or air conditioning for sure. All I cared about was having a cold beverage and a warm shower. I got both --- plus a hearty greeting by the resident pigs.

Thanks to Nancy for sharing her pictures.

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