Saturday June 30, 2007

 

DATE: Saturday June 30, 2007
ROUTE: Warsaw to Kazimierz nad Wisla
DISTANCE: 88 miles
TIME: 7 hours
CEG: 1500’
WEATHER: 70s Sunny Light Winds

Wow! A sunny day had us giddy with anticipation! I was sad to say a final goodbye to John, Reed, Brad, Doug, and Rick Price. I know they will follow our progress as we make our way to Istanbul. John and the boys presented each woman with a bouquet of blue flowers. We tucked them in our packs and were ready to take off when Michele and Monica discovered that all of Michele’s luggage was missing. They searched everywhere, even checking through luggage on two big tour busses, but could not find it. It had been stolen right out from under our noses! Michele was left with only the clothes on his back --- bike shorts and a jersey. Since Rick Price doesn’t fly home until tomorrow, he will handle the police report so Michele can leave with us.

We finally left the hotel at 9:15am, traveling in a group until we were safely out of Warsaw. Seco devised a great route and with the light weekend traffic, we had no problems. It was very intersting cycling through the suburbs. Though the architecture is quite a mixture, the homes are very nice all with beautiful gardens.

We headed south through cherry orchards, berry fields, and forests. Along the side of the road local folk put out baskets of produce to sell. Cherries, raspberries, and mushrooms were all tempting but with little room in my pack, I reluctantly cycled by. Further south we rode through farms of wheat, corn, and potatoes. I now understand why Poland is called the “breadbasket” of Europe.

Nancy and I arrived in town at 4:30 where we joined other members of our group for some liquid refreshment. Then we rode and walked (the worst cobblestones yet) the short distance to the hotel.

Kazimierz is an historic village situated on the banks of the Vistula River, and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our hotel is quaint and comfortable, and our dinner was delicious. In the late afternoon, Monica and Michele took a little time to go shopping. Michele came to dinner in his new clothes --- looking mighty fine! We can hardly wait to see the rest of his new wardrobe.

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Friday June 29, 2007

 

DATE: Friday June 29, 2007
ROUTE: Warsaw
DISTANCE: Rest Day
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER:

Today I’ve personally experienced the bureaucratic frustration that the Poles live with every day. As I have already sheepishly mentioned, I left my hot/cold weather bicycle clothes in a drawer in St Pete. I purchased a light-weight jacket in Tallinn and borrowed a pair of leg warmers from Monica. But, because I fear I will need my sun shirts, I asked Jon to send them to me here in Warsaw. Just contact FedEx and pay the shipping. What could be easier. How wrong I was! The package should have arrived at the hotel a week ago and been waiting for me at the desk. Not to be. After making sure the hotel hadn’t tucked it away in a back corner, I called Jon. He started the hunt from his end by tracking the package to Polish Customs. There it sits … gathering dust for the previous week. Numerous phone calls, numerous dead ends, much frustration ensued. Jon sent me the tracking number and the phone number for FedEx here in Warsaw. I would have to continue the hunt from here.

After breakfast this morning I asked Ela and Seco to call Customs and see about my package. After going round and round all day I still don’t have it. Here is an example of the way things work: Seco calls FedEx and gets the number for Customs. Three connections later he finally talks to the right agent. The agent faxes paperwork to the hotel for me to fill out. I can’t fill it out correctly without calling Jon for more information --- and it’s 2am in Sisters. Banjo hears the telephone and awakens Jon with his barking. I get the information, complete the paperwork, and fax it back to Customs. Seco calls to confirm the receipt of the fax. The agent is busy but will call back. He never does. I need not go on because it’s just more of the same. BUT, each connection with a person takes about 15 calls. Seco will dial the phone number and will get a busy signal, continual ringing, or a message that says the number is out of service. At some point a real person answers and Seco is given a new person to call. Fifteen more tries until he gets through. He says that this is not unusual at all. Seco has been by my side through all of this hassle because everything is in Polish and he needs to translate. What a prince! Here’s how it stands: Customs will release the package but can’t possibly do it today. I filled out more paperwork to give Seco permission to pick up my package. He will fetch it tomorrow and bring it to me Sunday when he joins us in Sandomierz. At least that’s the plan. I’m a little embarrassed to have taken up so much of his time but extremely grateful for his help.

Thank goodness for mobile phones! The package search was conducted during a very informative lecture on the history of Poland and a walking tour of the Old Town. During the Warsaw Uprising in August 1944, more than 85% of Warsaw’s historic center was totally destroyed by Nazi troops. I’m talking about ashes --- little remained. Our guide, Margo, showed us pictures of the city before WWII and after the destruction. Piles of rubble, that’s what was left. After the war, a 5 year reconstruction campaign by its citizens resulted in today’s meticulous restoration of Old Town, with its churches, palaces, and market-place. Look at the pictures --- you’d never guess that this city is only 50 years old. I can’t express my wonder at the strength and resilience of the Polish people.

Rick Price, founder and owner of ExperiencePlus, will also leave us this weekend. It’s been a treat having him along. His good humor and adventurous spirit are unflagging.

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Thursday June 28, 2007

 

DATE: Thursday June 28, 2007
ROUTE: Pultusk, Poland to Warsaw, Poland
DISTANCE: 48 miles
TIME: 4h 30m
CEG: 100’
WEATHER: 59 degrees Wind SSW Overcast

Yep, that’s me in Warsaw --- hard to believe! We’ve cycled 831 miles through 6 countries. The weather has been a challenge. Out of 13 days, 4 have been optimum conditions, 3 have been OK, and 6 have been the kind of weather that would keep a sane person inside reading a book. But we’ve had quite an adventure and feel like we really are on an expedition.

Yesterday my log was rather brief so I’ll add just a few more words. Many of the rural roads that we’ve traveled in Poland are lined with stately trees. On a lovely stretch when there was a break in the wind all was silent --- then I heard the call of a Cuckoo bird. This is a first for me! The fertile fields are planted in corn and wheat. This is a beautiful country. The adults are serious and determined. Everyone works hard. You see resolute faces and hear little laughter. But, and this is so different than in Russia, when I ride past on my recumbent, the people stop, stare, and encourage me with smiles and exclamatory comments. It’s really quite remarkable. Several groups of boys on bicycles rode along beside me. One young man kept me company for a couple of miles. This is the most attention my bike and I have received so far. (I wonder what will transpire in Hungary.) The roads are narrow and have no shoulders. Big trucks, farm equipment, and busses comprise most of the traffic. There are relatively few cars in the rural areas where we’ve been cycling. Without exception, all drivers have been polite and patient --- willing to share the road with us. Refreshing!

Everyone decided to cycle in to Warsaw rather than to ride in the van or take the local bus. We were a little wary of the weather and the traffic --- the experience of entering Kaliningrad still fresh in our minds. But the wind was less strong, the air a little warmer, and Seco assured us we would not be in heavy traffic for very long. So we set off optimistically, and we were not disappointed.

Let me explain about the “Green Door”. Bathrooms are not readily available on our route, however, trees, bushes and tall corn are. When you feel the need, you look for the “Green Door”. I was riding this morning with Nancy who prides herself on never needing the Green Door. I, however, have lots of experience finding the perfect spot --- private and suitably decorated with flowers and foliage. I told Nancy that I would need to stop and she surprised me by saying she needed to use the Green Door as well. To be brief --- she got herself in to a clump of nettles and came out of the woods shouting in pain and outrage. I administered some first aide, the van miraculously arrived with cortisone cream, Michele dug the mud out of her cletes, and we were on our way. Nancy swears she will not use the Green Door the rest of the trip!

The route in to Warsaw was cleverly devised to keep us out of traffic most of the way. Seco, a native of Warsaw, put us on bike paths and service roads much of time in the city. His arrows were timely and clear. We arrived at the hotel in great spirits --- but too early for our rooms to be ready. We congregated in the comfortable lobby --- some drinking beer, some eating food, everyone having a good time. A good friend of Bill’s joined us. Ela lives in Naples, Florida but is originally from Poland. She planned a visit to her family here in Warsaw to coincide with our arrival. She and her sister had dinner with the group. I look forward to knowing her better in the next few days.

Four of the group are leaving the tour. The Caldwells and Doug Coats will be heading home in the next few days. I will really miss the energy and spirit they bring to the collective personality of the group. I’ve spent a lot of riding time with the Caldwells and will notice their absence at the back of the pack with me. We honored them at dinner with well wishes and a mighty cheer. I wish them good luck in their future endeavors.

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Wednesday June 27, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday June 27, 2007
ROUTE: Olsztyn, Poland to Pultusk, Poland
DISTANCE: 102 miles
TIME: 8h 40m
CEG: 1500’
WEATHER: High Overcast, Windy, 57 degrees

A century of rural Polish roads, mostly in great shape. A century of 30mph wind, with stronger gusts, blowing steady from the SSW. A century of high overcast skies with a few sprinkles of rain and a few rays of sun. A century of heading south, looking for left turns.

I’m here, I’m happy, I’m tired.


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Tuesday June 26, 2007

DATE: Tuesday June 26, 2007
ROUTE: Kaliningrad, Russia to Olsztyn, Poland
DISTANCE: 76 miles --- 30 on bicycle
TIME: FOREVER
CEG: Flat
WEATHER: Rain, Rain, Rain

Wouldn’t you know it --- the sun is shining! The sky is blue with white, puffy clouds. AND we changed time zones so we have an extra hour to dry out, clean up, wash clothes, and imbibe in our favorite beverage.

Our start was delayed until 9:30am due to the thunder and lightning. And RAIN. Water-spout-fire-hose-don’t-look-up-or-you’ll-drown rain. None of us looked forward to getting out of the busy city in this mess. By 9:00am plans were made. The 4 precious spots in the van were immediately snapped up --- Dan having the only permanent spot until his ankle gets better. Others decided to take a taxi the 30 miles to the border. The remaining 11 would ride together with Toomas in the lead and Rick riding sweep. I’m in the riding group. Some of you, maybe all of you, may question my sanity but, after all, I came to ride. Compared to yesterday, I was feeling pretty chipper. We set off gingerly in a respite in the storm. Even though the rain had abated, we were soon soaked from pot-hole puddles and car/truck/bus backwash. Yuk, yuk, yuk! Then it started REALLY raining. And it did not stop. Reed hit a deep pot hole and went flying off his bicycle. He is sore and scraped but OK. We soldiered on …. and on …. and on ….

Everyone congregated at the border in a roadside café/shack where a group was celebrating (it’s now noon) with food, beer, music, and dance in one room and women were stuffing cigarettes into plastic bags in another. Surreal, indeed. We said good-bye to Toomas who will return to Estonis, his wife and baby, and his bike shop. He was an indispensable help and great fun to have around.

We approached the border all together with the van and crossed without incident. When you cross a border, you actually go through two inspections: one to leave the country from which you just came, and one to enter the country to which you go. There was more standing around and shivering but everyone, including the van, made it through in under an hour.

Monica had already called Seco, our new Polish guide, to ask for some transportation from the border to Olsztyn. We met Seco, and our long-lost Polo, at a café just across the border. We were so glad to see Polo and hear the story of his $700 taxi ride. Seco had found a bus to take everyone in to Olsztyn --- we love him already! No one took the option of riding his/her bicycle the rest of the way. We drank tea and coffee while we waited for the bus. It rained the entire 50 miles through the lovely Polish countryside This is Poland’s “lake District”, an area heavily glaciated in the last glacial period..

Right now I’m happily sitting in my room at the hotel --- warm and dry. And the sun is shining!

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Monday June 25, 2007

DATE: Monday June 25, 2007
ROUTE: Nida, Lithuania to Kaliningard, Russia
DISTANCE: 58 miles
TIME: 4h 45m
CEG: 500’
WEATHER: Perfect

This will be short. It’s late and I need to get to bed. This was a very odd day. The weather was gorgeous and the roads were mostly fine. But a lot went wrong.

The group cycled together the first 2 miles to the border crossing. The Russians would not let Polo, from Cuernevaca, through. Since he is a Mexican citizen, he had the Russian consulate in Mexico City issue his visa. They mistakenly wrote down one Russian entrance/exit instead of two. There was no flexibility on the part of the border control. He will take a taxi ($700) to our next stop and meet us tomorrow in Poland. This delayed us considerably.

When we finally got going, the next 30 miles were on the serene Curonian Spit. It is sparsely developed and looks very different than the Lithuanian half. While we were enjoying the scenery and the weather, unbeknownst to us, Monica was scrambling for hotel rooms. She had just discovered that our reservations had been cancelled. Not only did she have to find 15 rooms but also devise and mark a different route.

Coming into the city was dicey. The traffic was very heavy and erratic. It is easy to miss an arrow when you are watching for busses, trolleys, cars, trucks, and pedestrians. Nancy, Jane, and I together managed to find our way. We celebrated with a “It’s good to be alive” beer on the hotel terrace. This is one of the nicest hotels we’ve stayed in. We have lots of room and comfortable beds. The only thing missing is internet access.

I’d been feeling puny all day due to an allergic reaction to something in the hotel in Nida. I cycled today under the influence of allergy medicine, antihistamines, and Advil. I stayed at the hotel and took a nap while most went on a walking tour of the city.

After shopping and buying amber, David, Jane, Nancy, and I went to dinner at a recommended restaurant called La Dolce Vita. Inside it was dark and clandestine. Peeking around the corners we say swarthy looking sinister men having serious conversations. We chose a table out on the terrace. About 15 minutes later, Monica, Rick, Mechele, and Toomas showed up and got their own table for a "business" meeting. Everything was going great until our waitress disappeared. Really --- just disappeared. The other three had received thier salads and I had my grilled sword fish. We waited, and waited, and waited, and asked (no one spoke English) and asked and asked. After the fourth time that we were told “2 minutes” we decided to pay for what we’d eaten and leave. It was really quite bizarre. We were glad that Toomas was there to help us communicate. We got back to the hotel at 10:30 tired and still a bit hungry.

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Sunday June 24, 2007

DATE: Sunday June 24, 2007
ROUTE: Klaipeda, Lithuania to Nida, Lithuania
DISTANCE: Ferry then 30 miles
TIME: 2.5 hours
CEG: 200’
WEATHER: Perfect

A downpour with thunder and lightning woke me at 4am. I slipped out of the room at 5:30am to work on my blog in the lobby where wi-fi was available. I was not the only early riser. We listened and watched it rain while working on our computers. We had time to dawdle since we had such a short distance to ride. By the time we left at 10am, the skies had cleared and the sun was out. A short ferry ride took us to the north end of the Curonian Spit. This land formation is 60 miles long, over half of which belongs to Lithuania and the other half to Russia. At it’s widest point it is only 2.4 miles wide. To the east is the Curonian Lagoon and to the west lies the Baltic Sea. A road and a bike path run the length of the spit. It has been declared a “World Heritage Landscape in Danger” and is quite spectacular.

I was the last cyclist off the ferry and savored the solo cycling in the balmy weather. The road was nearly deserted until 4 or 5 cars would zoom by --- just off the ferry. I found most of the group 10 miles down the road at an outdoor café in Juodkrante. Margie and I decided to try and find the bike path by turning west on a gravel road. We dodged potholes and big rocks for about a mile until we were stopped by the Baltic Sea. The paved bike path paralleled the water and we were delighted to join other the Sunday cyclists out enjoying the sea air and sunshine. We came upon Jane, Dan and Reed waiting for assistance. Dan had just sprained his ankle and could not continue on his bicycle. Michele arrived quickly, phoned the van, and sent us on our way. We soon arrived at Nida, a lovely resort town right on the Lithuanian/Russian border. After checking in to the hotel, we joined in the solstice celebration. Music, folk dancing, food, and shopping were all at our disposal. This part of Lithuania, and south in to Kaliningrad, is famous for its amber. 90% of the world’s amber is found here. We are told that it is common to find it on the beaches --- just like agates on the Oregon Coast. Dan rented a 2 place cycling cart and Monica, with a little assistance from me, took him the few blocks to a restaurant where many in the group had gathered. Rick Myerberg (hollering "mush, mush!") did the honors on the return trip --- but needed both Jane and me to make it up the first hill.

By the way, last night I saw darkness, and this evening I saw the moon.

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Saturday June 23, 2007

  DATE: June 23, 2007
ROUTE: Jurkalne, Latvia to Klaipeda, Lithuania
DISTANCE: 102 miles
TIME: 7h 20m
CEG: 500’
WEATHER: rain with headwind then sun

We all knew this was going to be a big day. The previous two days had been tough, though not because of the distances we had cycled. The ferry rides, though peaceful and a wonderful change of pace, made late our arrival times at the hotels. Washing our clothes, showering, getting prepared for the next day, and enjoying a beer in the company of fellow riders takes 2-3 hours. If time, we also do a little exploring of the local area. Then dinner, bed, and it starts again. So we knew the 100+ miles facing us, plus a border crossing, would take mental determination as well as physical endurance. But we didn’t know it would rain for 60 miles and that the wind would work against us the entire way.

It could have been worse. I played that game for long stretches on the slick, pot-holed, sometimes treacherous road. I also played the game of “I’m OK, it’s just my feet that are soaked”, then ”I’m OK, it’s just my legs that are soaked”, then ”I’m OK, it’s just my shorts that are soaked” --- you get the picture. At the same time I was also looking for some perceivable lightness in the sky to give me hope of. Finally I just accepted the miserable situation and found a twisted pleasure in just watching my feet go round and round.

I was positive I was the last of our group when Rick Price and Jon and Reed Caldwell startled me out of my reverie. Under Rick’s welcome direction, the 4 of us formed a pace line that upped my forward progress form 10 mph to 14 mph. Their presence also provided some welcome company and a connection to reality. I had been fantasizing about the mythical powers of the pervasive storks and their potential ability to lead me to the promised land --- Lithuania.

Good things started coming our way --- slowly but surely. The rain lessoned, then ceased. We stopped at a grocery store in Liepaja for provisions. I watched the bicycles and stood in the weak sunshine trying to dry out. We also captured Jane and made her a contributing member of our formidable team. At 70 miles we came upon the van. Monica had snacks and good news: our distance was 5 miles shorter than expected and there was sunshine and good roads in Lithuania. The border crossing went without incident (after Rick put his camera away) and we entered Brigadoon/Lithuania. Sunshine and flowers. Everyone celebrating the summer solstice. Bright skirts, happy families, weddings, everything and everyone, including the cars, sporting flowers. John presented flowers to Jane and me and we rode the final 15 miles in style.

And best of all, this was Reed’s first century! He, his dad, and his brother will leave us in Warsaw. I enjoy their company so much and I will miss them terribly when they are gone. Having these “boys” with us adds a fresh dazzle to the group. Reed leaves in the fall for med school in Granada. So being part of his century “team” was a thrill.

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Friday June 22, 2007

 

DATE: June 22, 2007
ROUTE: Kuressaare, Estonia to Jurkane, Latvia
DISTANCE: 62 miles
TIME: 4h 30 m
CEG: 500’
WEATHER: clouds, sun, overcast 70s

We had a quick breakfast at 7am and everyone was on the road by 7:30am. No dawdling … the ferry leaves at 10am. We had 28 miles and passport control to negotiate, which normally wouldn’t be a big deal. But a head wind or a flat tire, or a head wind and a flat tire, could cause serious problems. The road was smooth and flat. Everyone made it with time to spare. After a four-hour ferry ride and a wait for entry to Latvia, we were on our bikes again. It was 2:30pm with 34 miles ahead. The weather mostly cooperated with only a moderate head or crosswind to slow us down. This part of Latvia is very rural. Even though we rode the main road south, there was very little traffic.

I arrived at the hotel at 5:30pm which left plenty of time to have a Diet Coke and pursue the stork out back.


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Thursday June 21, 2007

A note to all those reading my blog: I appreciate your encouragement and comments. If you include your email address with your comment, I may be able drop you a note. This is the last day in Estonia and I will not be able to post as often --- maybe only on rest days when I can find an internet café. This is an amazing adventure and I’m glad to share it with all of you.


DATE: Thursday June 21, 2007
ROUTE: Haapsalu - Kuressaare
DISTANCE: 6miles + 30miles + 35miles
TIME: 5h 45m on bike
CEG: 300’
WEATHER: Perfect

Today we are regulated by the ferry schedule. We are cycling over two Estonian islands on the longest day of the year. I expect to get to the hotel at 9:00 tonight so it’s good to have plenty of light. We start our day with a 6 mile ride to the ferry. It departs at 10:30 and will get to Hiiumaa at noon. Then we have 4 hours to cycle 30 miles to make to the next ferry. It departs at 4:00 and will arrive at Saaremaa at 5:00. We end the day with 35 final miles to the hotel.

I’m on the ferry right now writing this log. Since I have the time, let me tell you about ExperiencePlus. You can look them up on the web to see all the walking and cycling tours they offer. They have just recently started offering longer, more challenging cycling tours under the name ExpeditionPlus. Last year was their first time of doing this route. This year some of the route has changed to find better roads and different scenery. This is the best organized, best managed tour I have ever been on. Monica and Michele, our leaders, will be with us the entire way. Rick Price, founder (and father of Monica) of the company, joined us in Tallinn and will stay with us until Warsaw. He is with us to take pictures (see the link on the ExperiencePlus website) and to check out the new portions of this route. Toomas, with an assist from Margo, is our local guide who will be with us from Russia to Poland. We were each given a very detailed road map. Every night we have a short meeting to discuss the next day’s route. In the morning we eat, take our suitcases to the van, and give one of the crew a 20 minute head start to mark our route with arrows. Then we are on our way. The van, our only vehicle, carries our luggage to the hotel then backtracks to see if anyone needs assistance. One of the crew rides sweep. There are no designated SAG stops for food or water. We are basically on our own for the day, but we are always secure knowing Monica will find and help us if we need it. Monica has arranged with each hotel to put out lunch fixings at the breakfast buffet. The crew cleans and services the bikes each night and are eager to help in any way. For me, this is the perfect balance of freedom and coddling. Monica and Michele are gregarious, competent, smart, interesting and generous with their time and talent. I feel so fortunate to be on this tour, and even more fortunate to have them as our leaders.

Well, I made it. I arrived at the hotel with plenty of light and a little energy to spare. It was a great day with no problems. The weather was in the low 70s, the wind was at our heads (naturally!) but slight, the scenery lovely, and the roads were straight and smooth. The highlight was the side trip to an old woolen mill that cards and knits the wool from the local sheep. The mill uses the original machinery which the family restored in the 30s. They were, however, not able to get their Visa machine to work. I bought a beautiful vest at a considerable discount by offering her all the money in my wallet. Now … is there room in my suitcase?

We have an early ferry tomorrow with 24 miles to ride by 9:45am. It’s 11pm and past time for bed.


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Wednesday June 20, 2007

DATE: Wednesday June 20, 2007
ROUTE: Tallinn to Haapsalu
DISTANCE: 78 miles
TIME: 6h 4m
CEG: 900’
WEATHER: sunny, high 60s, mild head wind

We were told we had 85 miles today so I was ready to go right at 8:30am. We must give one of the crew time to draw our route-arrows so none of us leaves early. Margo, who lives in Tallinn, will do the honors this morning until the outskirts of Tallinn. He then goes back to his real job and turns the arrow placing back to Toomas. We all enjoyed Margo and wish him well.

I was feeling pretty chipper in my new cycling jacket. Even though it does not say Estonia on it, all who have been here will recognize the colors of the flag. The morning breeze off the water was a bit nippy and the jacket kept me perfectly comfortable. The entire route today, except for getting out of Tallinn and entering Haapsalu, is on rural roads with varied scenery. We cycled along the Baltic, past cultivated and fallow fields, through little towns and lush forest corridors. It looks very much like upper Minnesota to me. Just when I was needing water, Monica showed up in the van. She filled my Camelbak, shared a cookie, then gave me the best present of all: the route distance had been calculated inaccurately and there were only 9, not 19 more miles to go!

I arrived at the hotel by 3 and enjoyed the sunshine and view out on the patio beside Haapsalu Bay. After I showered and changed, Jane and I walked along the promenade to Tchaikowsky’s bench placed where the great Russian composer would sit and contemplate the sea. When you approach the bench, a hidden sensor detects your presence and starts playing one of Tchaikovsky’s compositions. As I took my seat on the bench, the orchestra played Swan Lake. I looked at the water and there were the swans --- yes, really.

The dinner at the hotel was typical Estonian fare: cabbage salad to start, a main course of pickled cabbage, boiled potatoes, and meat, ending with a yogurt/fruit dessert. The Estonian food and manner of cooking is very much like German. Tasty and hearty.

It always seems like we go to bed early because the light. I've been closing my eyes at about 11pm, really late for me since I awaken at 5am like it or not. We have a strange day tomorrow of ferry riding and 70+ miles of riding so I'm going to try to go to bed early. Let's see --- its now 10:15 and the sun is still shining.

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DATE: Tuesday June 19, 2007
ROUTE: Tallinn Rest Day
DISTANCE: Lots of walking
TIME:
CEG: Up/Down/Up/Down
WEATHER: Sunny and Mild


Rest days are really important for recovery but even though we stay off the bikes, we are never inactive. Our hotel was located perfectly at the bottom of the hill to Old Town. This well-preserved medieval center is filled with towers, ramparts, facades, churches, shops, and restaurants.

But first things first: LAUNDRY! It’s always a relief to get your clothes really clean after nightly washings in the shower or sink. And laundry day, in my experience, always turns out to be full of surprises. The plan was to take the car and a few people to the laundry across town. We’d leave it there and pick it up after our 9:30 orientation walk. Well …. the laundry was swamped with a mountain unexpected of shirts. The women would not have time to do our loads, but we could leave them to be washed when a washer became available. They would put our clothes in the washer if they had time and if they remembered. While Toomas (our Russia/Baltic guide) made the arrangements, the pneumatic shirt presser kept me amused. Remember that some people had sent most of their wardrobe (me) and didn’t want to be riding in their pajamas or skivvies. It was with reluctance that Monica, Margie, and I left our bagged clothes leaning against busy washers. We met the rest of the group at the hotel for our tour. At the end of our tour we continued walking to the laundry --- but this time with the clothes owners tagging along. We were relieved to find that all our clothes had been washed and we just had to put them in the dryer and wait and wait and wait. Toomas showed up with the van at just the right time and we returned to the hotel with fresh, clean clothes.

Several people then went with Toomas to a “big” bicycle store. I had unfortunately left some clothes in a drawer in St Petersburg and needed a long sleeved jacket or jersey for the chilly morning temperatures. The shop had many bicycles but no clothes for women. I had hoped to find something with Tallinn or Estonia across the back but no such luck. There is still very little choices in this kind of clothing in Estonia. I was happy to find a jacket that has the colors of the Estonian flag: blue for sky, black for suffering, and white for hope.

I spent the rest of the day walking around Old Town and enjoying the hope and vitality of this beautiful city.

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Monday June 18, 2007

DATE: Monday June 18, 2007
ROUTE: Palmse - Tallinn
DISTANCE: 60 miles
TIME: 5h 20m
CEG: 915’
WEATHER: moderate headwind - sun to drizzle to rain

We are dark deprived. Our room last night had a skylight without a shade. Jane awakened at 2am, and, since she couldn’t get back to sleep, read by natural light. It’s such a strange experience to not have night. I’m so glad I not here in the winter to live without light. As the world turns, and as we head south, we should get some dark. Keep tuned ….

Today we spent 90% of our ride on rural roads. The sun left us at about 5 miles, the high overcast turned to drizzle at about 40 miles, the drizzle turned to rain at about 50 miles, and we were soaked and shivering by the time we arrived at the hotel. Tallinn is a gorgeous city gracing the Baltic. It would have been a breathtaking entrance if the sun had been out. Our route took us through old town and over cobblestone streets --- a bit treacherous in the rain. I negotiated the final 10 miles alone, through a teaming industrial area with huge trucks spaying water and grime, down a blessed bike path edging the harbor, beside the stone wall and under the arch of Old Town, and finally to the hotel. Jane always arrives enough ahead of me to take her shower so I was able to clean up immediately.

And now a rest day tomorrow to enjoy the city!


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DATE: Sunday June 17, 2007
ROUTE: Toila to Palmse
DISTANCE: 70 miles
TIME: 5h 20 m
CEG: 895’
WEATHER: Rain

We were hopeful. Rain was forecast but it was sunny at our 8:30 start. Then overcast. Then drizzle. Then rain. But everyone I talked with, and I concur, had a great day. We were on good roads with spars traffic. We played peek-a-boo with the Baltic. We ended at Palmse at the edge of the Lehemaa National Park. This was the first park designated by the Soviet Union and it comprises 4 peninsulas stunning in their beauty and diversity.

We spend the night at one of the 4 manor houses at the edge of the park. We are all soaked but delighted with our accommodations and the hot baths. Palmse has its own microbrew which is mighty tasty!

Tomorrow the weather forecast is for high overcast and scattered drizzle. I think my clothes are dry so bring it on!

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Saturday June 16, 2007

DATE: Saturday June 16, 2007
ROUTE: Ivonogod - Toila
DISTANCE: 36 miles
TIME: 3h 15m
CEG: 645’
WEATHER: sunshine 70 degrees

In contrast to yesterday, this was one of the finest cycling days I can remember. Maybe it was just the contrast between the weather, or the countries, or the people that made it seem so wonderful. We crossed the border without incident.. In sunshine. With a light breeze from the sea. This land seems full of blooming flowers fertile fields and a thriving economy. We met people that would look you in the eye and smile. We saw women wearing purple hats and children skipping. My bicycle always attracts plenty of attention but in Russia my smiles were met with disapproval and in Estonia with exclamation, smiles, and a thumbs-up.

The Soviet planned town of Sillamae was celebrating its founding. The air was filled with music, balloons, and a soft sea breeze. We were all made to feel welcome.

Our hotel is a Spa and I booked a massage as soon as I checked in. It was very relaxing, though nothing can rival Anastacia’s magic fingers.

Internet service in the lobby, beer in the bar. Life is good. We LOVE Estoia!

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Friday June 15, 2007

 
DATE: Friday June 15, 2007
ROUTE: Gatchina - Ivangorod
DISTANCE: 84 miles
TIME: 8h 15m
CEG: 1000’
WEATHER: WINDY

It started out bad and went from there to making my list of the 5 most miserable days spent on a bicycle. Yes, it could have been worse.

All the anticipation had me sleeping fitfully to say the least. But I was fully awakend at 3:30am by deafening thunder, sheet lightning, and torrential rain. Not a great way to start our adventure. However, a few rays of sun peeked out by 8:30am and it didn’t rain again all day. What’s so bad about that you may wonder. How about unavoidable potholes filled with water and unavoidable spray from very big trucks on a very narrow road. Then, to add insult to injury, the wind was in our faces at a steady 35 mph with gusts in the 50s. Straight out of the west, exactly where we were bound. It just didn’t seem fair that in all these adverse conditions everyone missed the first turn. The group I was with discovered its error in only 3+ miles --- the speedy group was out of sight.

So the day continued on and on and on. My legs were complaining at 3 miles and I knew that was a bad sign! The good thing was that the terrain was mostly flat. I felt really good if I managed to progress in double digits though most of the time I was working hard, hard, hard and squeaking out only 6 – 8 mph. With nine miles to go, I knew I would make it. Then, what to my wondering eyes should appear but an angel in the form of John. He had been back checking on his son, Reed. He then caught up with me and pulled me in to Ivanogod. A recumbent drafts rather nicely behind a regular bike! Having spent the previous15 miles (that’s two hours!) in my own bad company, he was a welcome and much appreciated surprise.

Our hotel was the epitome of Soviet functionality. The mattress had a filling very much like straw and the hot water lasted only 3 minutes. But really, it was so great to be off the road it just didn’t matter. We shared restaurant facilities with a group of graduates (high school) celebrating with their families. Their disco music, dancing, and games were the first proof that not all Russians are dour and drab. The teenagers were very young in 1991 when the Soviet Union collapsed, and they will be the first generation to feel free enough to laugh out loud.

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Thursday June 14, 2007

  Thursday
June 14, 2007
St. Petersburg - Gatchina

We were to meet in the lobby at 11:00 ready to head out. I had plenty of time to eat breakfast, pack, and go for a refreshing walk on my last day in St Petersburg. We boarded the bus with all our stuff and departed right on time. Everyone was anxious to get to Gatchina where the cycling begins. On the hour trip we passed the Siege Memorial where for 900 days the citizens of St Petersburg heroically held back the Nazi assault. The memorial stands on the line where the Axis forces were stopped. At our hotel the others were fit for their bicycles while I assembled my trusty Lightning. A safety talk and route rap, dinner, then to bed. We are all excited to get pedaling!


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Wednesday June 13, 2007

Wednesday
June 13, 2007
St. Petersburg

Another beautiful day! We spent most of the morning and part of the afternoon with a guide at the Hermitage. Visiting this art museum has been on my “wish list” for at least 1000 years. To see this astounding collection in the home of the czar’s Winter Palace intensified the experience. In 1917 the Provisional Government met for the very last time in the green-pillared Malachite Hall before being arrested in the adjacent dining room. The building faces Palace Square where the Bolshevik forces assembled before storming the palace. And here we were, assembled before meeting our very personable and knowledgable guide. The crowds were disconcerting and oppressive, especially around the two exquisite Da Vinci Madonna’s. In high season, 30,000 people visit this museum a day! Jane, Marjorie, and I took a short break for water and a snack, then climbed to the third floor to see the Impressionist collection. We expected it to me crowded as well. We were delighted to be in rooms of Monet, Pissaro, and Renoir with only one or two other people! We could stand in the center of the room and see all the paintings just by pivoting in a circle. It was both relaxing and exhilarating.

We boarded the correct bus for the ride back to the hotel. I took a short nap and met some of the group in the hotel bar. I had a delicious cup of borsch for dinner then looked at my watch. To my amazement, it was already 10pm! We will have more and more light for 7 more days. St Pete has a huge celebration called White Knights --- I’m glad I will be somewhere in Estonia that is less frenetic.

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Tuesday
June 12, 2007
St. Petersburg

I slept well and awakened at 5am. The group wandered into the hotel buffet and I met the rest of the riders. Two will arrive on Thursday; otherwise we are all here. Four are missing luggage and we all compared our flight experiences. Several encountered weather delays, missed connections, and re-routing. I feel fortunate to have arrived on time with all my luggage.

The guide and bus arrived at 9:30 to take us on a tour of the city. Once a swamp, then an imperial capital, now a mixture of vanished aristocratic opulence and grimy ruined socialism, St Petersburg is a fascinating city. Located on the Gulf of Finland and laced with rivers and canals, it is accurately known as the “Venice of the North”. The weather is sunny and mild --- but apparently totally unpredictable. The guide says that the general outlook weather-wise is “9 months of anticipation and 3 months of disappointment.” In two of the churches we quietly observed services in progress with beautiful acapella choirs --- a lovely surprise. The churches are opulent with paintings, religious symbols, and sacred items. During Communism, all religion was banned. The restoration of the churches began in 1991. The transformation must be astounding to the Russians. On of the great churches, the Kazan Cathedral reopened after years as the Museum of Atheism.

After we get a general idea of the city, we are on our own. Most of us decide to take the 45-minute hydrofoil trip to Peterhof, Peter the Great’s lavish palace and gardens. He built it to quell his Versailles envy. There was not time to give the palace its due, so I decided to enjoy the extensive gardens and leave the palace for a future visit.

Back in the city we set out for Palace Square, the site of the beginning of the revolution. After a delicious dinner at a small microbrewery we take the metro part way to the hotel and finish the evening by walking the rest of the way on the Neva River. I am surprised when I look at my watch, it is 11:00pm and it is bright daylight. I haven’t seen the dark yet.


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Sunday/Monday June10/11, 2007

 

June 10 & 11, 2007

Up at 5am, out of the house at 7am, in the sky at 9:30am. My first leg, Redmond to Portland, took only 40 minutes. Mom met me at the airport to while away the next 3 hours. It was great to have her all to myself with no annoying siblings, nieces, nephews, or husbands vying for her attention. The flight from PDX to Frankfurt lasted almost 12 hours. We were in circling purgatory above Frankfurt for almost an hour waiting for our turn to land. Rain and fog had all but one runway obscured. I read an entire book, completed 11 Sudoku puzzles, and fitfully napped. I tried not to worry about the state of my bicycle sequestered (I hoped!) in the belly of this beast. I had a long 5 hour layover in Frankfurt before departing for St. Petersburg. I amused myself by trying to find a hot spot to get my computer up and running. During my hunt I treated myself to a Diet Coke --- a very expensive Diet Coke. I didn’t have any Euros and didn’t come upon an ATM (very odd!) so I paid with dollars. The meager 10 ounces cost $5.00!!!! During the 3 hour flight to St. Pete, I fretted about going through Russian Customs with two huge suitcases (mostly the bicycle and tools, shoes, helmet, etc) and a heavy carry-on with my clothes. I had visions of the inspector unpacking all the pieces of my bicycle then leaving me to figure how to get it back into the suitcase. I takes me about an hour to break down the bicycle and fit it into the case --- and it’s so complicated that I watch a video on my computer to make sure I do it correctly. Was I surprised to see everyone just walking through the gate! A very serious inspector asked me to step aside and put my luggage through an x-ray machine then asked me what I was going to do with that mess of metal. After I explained that it was a bicycle and that I was riding it to Istanbul he rolled his eyes, shook his head, and waved me out the gate. The shuttle that ExpeditionPlus arranged for was waiting and we drove silently (he spoke neither English nor Spanish and I speak no Russian) to the hotel. After checking in, finding my room, and a walk on the river I returned to the hotel. In the lobby I met the rest of the riders just returning from dinner. (I arrived too late to go with the group.) It was really great to see some familiar faces from the Mississippi Ride: Dan, Bill, and Rick. I also met our leaders, Monika and Michele.

It is finally time to try and sleep and get on Russian time. By the way, at 11pm here it is still so light that the cars aren’t using headlights and I am writing in the natural light from my window. Weird! Just the beginning of many strange and wonderful experiences, I’m sure.

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Sunday June 10, 2007

Well, I'm packed and about to leave for the airport. In 25 hours I'll be in St Petersburg, Russia. Someone from Experience Plus will meet me at the airport and help me with my mountain of luggage. Taking my bicycle with tubes, extra tires, tools and accessories is quite an undertaking. Here is a look at my route from the air:

Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia (again), Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, and Istanbul. Click on the image to get a closer view.

Keep on the sunny side!

Elizabeth