Wednesday June 20, 2007

DATE: Wednesday June 20, 2007
ROUTE: Tallinn to Haapsalu
DISTANCE: 78 miles
TIME: 6h 4m
CEG: 900’
WEATHER: sunny, high 60s, mild head wind

We were told we had 85 miles today so I was ready to go right at 8:30am. We must give one of the crew time to draw our route-arrows so none of us leaves early. Margo, who lives in Tallinn, will do the honors this morning until the outskirts of Tallinn. He then goes back to his real job and turns the arrow placing back to Toomas. We all enjoyed Margo and wish him well.

I was feeling pretty chipper in my new cycling jacket. Even though it does not say Estonia on it, all who have been here will recognize the colors of the flag. The morning breeze off the water was a bit nippy and the jacket kept me perfectly comfortable. The entire route today, except for getting out of Tallinn and entering Haapsalu, is on rural roads with varied scenery. We cycled along the Baltic, past cultivated and fallow fields, through little towns and lush forest corridors. It looks very much like upper Minnesota to me. Just when I was needing water, Monica showed up in the van. She filled my Camelbak, shared a cookie, then gave me the best present of all: the route distance had been calculated inaccurately and there were only 9, not 19 more miles to go!

I arrived at the hotel by 3 and enjoyed the sunshine and view out on the patio beside Haapsalu Bay. After I showered and changed, Jane and I walked along the promenade to Tchaikowsky’s bench placed where the great Russian composer would sit and contemplate the sea. When you approach the bench, a hidden sensor detects your presence and starts playing one of Tchaikovsky’s compositions. As I took my seat on the bench, the orchestra played Swan Lake. I looked at the water and there were the swans --- yes, really.

The dinner at the hotel was typical Estonian fare: cabbage salad to start, a main course of pickled cabbage, boiled potatoes, and meat, ending with a yogurt/fruit dessert. The Estonian food and manner of cooking is very much like German. Tasty and hearty.

It always seems like we go to bed early because the light. I've been closing my eyes at about 11pm, really late for me since I awaken at 5am like it or not. We have a strange day tomorrow of ferry riding and 70+ miles of riding so I'm going to try to go to bed early. Let's see --- its now 10:15 and the sun is still shining.

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