Saturday July 28, 2007

DATE: Saturday July 28, 2007
ROUTE: Kumkoy, Turkey to Istanbul, Turkey
DISTANCE: 10 miles
TIME: 1h 15m
CEG: 700’
WEATHER: Beautiful!

Technically, Kumkoy is part of metropolitan Istanbul. Our itinerary showed an 8.5 mile ride to the dock, a 75 minute ferry ride down the Bosforous, and a 1.5 mile walk/ride to the hotel. Our privately chartered ferry (very decadent!) was scheduled to leave the dock at 11:00am. We had a lazy morning and left the hotel on our newly decorated bicycles at 9:00am. Dan, Jane, Bill, Rick, Kathie, and Fritz decided that I should lead. I don’t think they knew how slowly I would climb the one long, steep hill. Only Kathie broke rank --- she couldn’t deal with the pain and suffering! We had a breathtaking descent to a charming village at the juncture of the Black Sea and the Bosforous.

With an hour to wait, we sat in the sun at a waterfront bar. Finally we loaded the bikes and were on our way. The trip down the Bosforous was a thrilling and perfect introduction to this fascinating city. I parked my bike in the prow of the ferry and enjoyed the sights on my comfortable seat.

Michele was waiting for us at the ferry dock and we followed his lead to the hotel. The traffic was very hectic and we were all perfectly content to ride a little and walk alot. Our hotel is very nice --- perfectly located near the Grand Bazaar, The Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace, and the Hagia Sofia.

We walked to our dinner restaurant through the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market. Both will be closed on Sunday so I will save my shopping until Monday. Tomorrow Sahli will take us on a city walk to all the important sites of the city. I think I will visit the Turkish Baths and maybe even take a nap.

This will be my final log. For the next 2 days I will enjoy the city, break down my bicycle, and prepare for my flight. I leave Istanbul at 6:00am July 31 and arrive in Redmond at 2:15pm the same day. To get to the airport and through security in Turkey, I am advised to leave the hotel 4 hours before my flight departs. All in all, I will be in transit 24 hours --- undoubtedly the hardest part of this entire adventure.

Thank you so much for your interest and support. It’s been fun sharing my journey with friends and family. I’ll see you soon.

Love,
Elizabeth

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Friday July 27, 2007

 

DATE: Friday July 27, 2007
ROUTE: Vize, Turkey to Kumkoy, Turkey
DISTANCE: 80 miles
TIME: 7h 55m
CEG: 5000’
WEATHER: 85 degrees moderate head/cross winds

This was the best riding day of the trip. The wind was still when I departed at 6:30am. When it started to ruffle the trees there was intermittent protection. The temperatures did not get above the mid 80s. The scenery was varied and stunning. What a way to end our expedition!

I climbed most of the morning --- some ascending rollers, some major hills, and some wicked knobs. Stefania joined me as sweep at about 8:00am. She is great company.
We met two French cyclists just starting out their journey from Istanbul to Paris. Stefania stopped to compare routes and I continued on, knowing she would catch me soon. I stopped at a corner near a little store to wait for her --- intending to have a drink and a snack when she showed up. A young boy approached me with a bottle of water --- sent out by the store proprietor. He would not let me pay. As I continued to wait for Stefania, the proprietor came out of his store and led me to a table and chair in the shade. He invited me to sit down and wait in comfort. Since I know only 2 words in Turkish (hello and thank you), we were communicating with gestures. I sat down, and he placed a rose in front of me. When Stefania arrived, he brought her water and a rose as well. We were both very touched by his generosity.

The next portion of the route was tough --- but elating. We climbed some more and after I crested a long hill, I got my first glimpse of the Black Sea. What a thrill! Stefania received a phone call with some disappointing news: Monica was pulling all of us off the road at the 80 mile mark due to dangerous traffic. They would shuttle us the final 20 miles into Kumkoy. Since the van can only carry 5 passengers at a time, Stefania and I decided to ride as far as was safe and wait for the van to return from its first trip. We discovered the traffic problem --- a huge construction project involving 200 or more dump trucks (all new) driving both directions at breakneck speeds on our narrow, peaceful, beautiful road. We found out later that an entire hillside was being reshaped for a housing development. The trucks are paid by the load and we witnessed many instances of trucks vying for the best position. Beside the road, herds of water buffalo grazed untethered on what could easily be their last meal. A cow wandered out in the road and narrowly missed being hit. A car was not so fortunate. It was a monster truck derby for real.

Stefania and I found a place to wait for the van outside a modest little bar in a tiny quiet village made chaotic and filthy by the truck activity. Once again, we were welcomed by the proprietor with water, Coke, and tea --- all delivered by a young boy. We were not allowed to pay.

We finally arrived in Kumkoy at 6:30pm. Our hotel was in a great location, perched on a hill above the Black Sea. After dinner we walked down through this throbbing beach town for a little wading in the water. On the return, I spotted a vendor who had Diet Coke. I remembered, too late, that I had left my money in the hotel. No one else had money either. The young man insisted that I take the Diet Coke anyway.

Later, I asked our guide about the astounding generosity of the Turkish people. For the last 5 days all of us have continuously received enthusiastic support from the people we pass. We are welcomed as if we are long lost family finally coming home. We have been invited to share food and drink with complete strangers. Sahli explained that, especially in the small villages, the people are honored to receive travelers. Allah has caused our paths to cross, and they are pleased to make our journey more comfortable. Most villages still have guest quarters above the village coffee house. It is offered to those who are passing through needing a place to sleep.

This is truly an exotic and wonderful country.

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Thursday, July 26, 2007

DATE: Thursday July 27, 2007
ROUTE: Edirne, Turkey to Vize, Turkey
DISTANCE: 73 miles
TIME: 7h 35m
CEG: 3740
WEATHER: 89 degrees head/cross winds 30mph steady, 40mph gusts


The heat wave is over for the moment. CNN says that over 500 have died in
Hungary and Romania from the elevated temperatures --- 120 degrees in some
areas. CNN also says that a new wave is coming this weekend. Tomorrow is
our last full day of cycling so at least we will be off the road.

With the decline in temperatures came a vicious wind. Today’s route sent
us east. The wind was from the NNE. So we rode in a cross or head wind
for most of the way. My arms are strained from gripping the handlebars
and struggling to keep on the road. On the flat I pushed to keep above
8mph. Ascending, I wobbled at 3.4mph. Descending, I pedaled hard to top
12mph. To give you an idea of the power of the wind, picture this: On a
short part of a long hill the road turned south. Yea! A tailwind to help
me climb! I COASTED up the hill at 19mph! Yes, really!

Because of the wind, I concentrated on getting to Vize. I have no tales
to tell and very few pictures.

Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be the same, the route longer. 90
miles. Oh, well. As Rick says, “It is what it is.”

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Wednesday July 25, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday July 25, 2007
ROUTE: Edirne, Turkey
DISTANCE: Rest Day
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER: mid 100s

Edirne is a very well preserved Ottoman city with impressive mosques, teeming bazaars, and elegant, domestic architecture. It is full of sights and sounds different from any of the twelve countries through which we have cycled.

I was awakened this morning at 4:55am by the reedy incantation of the call to prayer. We gathered in our courtyard at 9:00am for our city tour. Sahli is a wealth of knowledge in history, politics, literature, architecture, and current events. His gentle manner and subtle sense of humor make him a very informative and enjoyable guide. He took us through the bizaar, past the Eski Camii and into the Selimiye Camii. We wound our way through the narrow streets filled with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and a huge variety of pastries and candy.

Chantal, Jane and I ate lunch at a tiny restaurant where we pointed to the food items we wanted. I had grilled chicken. rice, and garbonzo beans --- all delicious. I spent the afternoon getting caught up on my blog. I now leave for the nearby internet café to post --- at least to try to post. I believe I go past a pastrie shop with a variety of baklava --- my favorite treat. Then it will be time to get organized for our hot, long ride tomorrow. We will be in Istanbul in only 3 days. Hard to believe!

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Tuesday July 24, 2007

 

DATE: Tuesday July 24, 2007
ROUTE: Kardzhali, Bulgaria to Edirne, Turkey through Greece
DISTANCE: 82 miles
TIME: 7h 15m
CEG: 3500’
WEATHER: HOT HOTTER HOTTEST 111 degrees

Well, as you can see, the temperatures have not decreased. Today was a record for me --- and one I do not want to break. 111 degrees makes you feel like you are the Thanksgiving turkey roasting in the oven. Half of the group made other plans: taking the local bus to Edirne, cycling to Greece then taking the van, or riding in the van to Greece then cycling the rest of the way.

I had been looking forward to this: three countries in one day. Nancy was thrilled with her birthday helmet and was determined to wear it as long as it would last.

We traveled through the Balkan foothills with beautiful views in every direction. We saw many more wagons pulled by donkeys than cars. As we got closer to Turkey, the Moorish influence became more and more apparent. After 55 miles, we were at the Greek border. The temperature was 105 degrees. We said goodbye to Alec, our Bulgarian guide, and had a quick drink. We expected the next 20 miles in Greece to be hot but not too hard. The route was on a rolling, lightly traveled, smooth freeway with wide shoulders. But the heat on the black pavement really had us suffering. My temperature gauge registered 111 degrees. Yikes! At 13 miles a gas station with air conditioning brought us back to life. We drank sodas and water and cooled off. Before we departed we soaked our heads and shirts. We reluctantly went back in the oven for 5 more miles then exited the freeway to cross the border into Turkey.

Entering Turkey was similar to entering Russia: waiting while nothing seemed to happen. We were required to buy a Turkish Visa for $20 and have our passports inspected and stamped. Things progressed slowly but smoothly due to the help of our new Turkish guide, Sahli. Things did not go so well for the van. It seems some obscure paperwork concerning spare bicycle parts was required. We said goodbye to Michele and Sahli and hoped we would see them, the van, and our luggage at the hotel when we arrived.

Only 6 miles to our hotel --- a piece of cake! Not so. Bridges undergoing restoration, 4 miles of the hated cobblestones, and chaotic traffic slowed our progress and often had us walking. The temperature had decreased to a bearable 108 degrees. Nancy, Stefania, and I were warmly greeted with cold water and cold sodas. The van had not arrived so everyone sat in the courtyard and told stories of the day’s adventures. When the van finally arrived, we quickly unloaded the luggage and headed for the showers.

We are really in an exotic and fascinating place! Our hotel was built in the 16th century and used as a caravan stop. It has been beautifully restored with functioning air conditioning. It is located near the center of the city next to the Selimiye Camii, one of Turkey’s finest mosques. The mosque is the masterpiece of Mimar Sinan (1490-1588), court architect to three sultans.

We ate dinner in a waterfront garden restaurant with a lovely view of the Roman Bridge spanning the Meric River. This was the same bridge we had crossed entering the city --- under construction and open only to pedestrians and bicycles. We celebrated Nancy’s birthday with wine, cake, and song. The shadow photo was taken walking back to the hotel with the moon and streetlight behind us. Michele is pretending to douse my head with water --- a very common occurrence these last many days.

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Monday July 23, 2007

 

DATE: Monday July 23, 2007
ROUTE: Plovdiv, Bulgaria to Kardzhali, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 69 miles
TIME: 6h 10m
CEG: 4200’
WEATHER: HOT HOT HOT 105 degrees

The weather seems to be the headline news worldwide and also here on the tour. The temperature just keeps rising and the hills just keep coming.

The morning was beautiful. I savored the perfect temperature (75 degrees) knowing it would soon be sweltering. The two major climbs through the Balkan Mountains were in the first 35 miles. I stopped at every fountain to douse my head and soak my shirt. This was also a chance to talk (or at least try) with the local villagers or truck drivers who are filling up bottles for their own use.

The last 10 miles, in the heat of the day, had 3 wicked hills --- each successively longer and steeper. At the start of the third hill I made prompt use of a fountain. Even though this hill had a slope of 10%, I was pretty comfortable inching my way up. Overheated cars and trucks were languishing on the shoulder. At the top I was rewarded with a 4 mile downhill which took me to the hotel.

Kathie, Chantal, Jane, and I spent time after dinner decorating Nancy’s helmet. She will celebrate her birthday tomorrow and we want her looking her best.

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Sunday, July 22, 2007

DATE: Sunday July 22, 2007
ROUTE: Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria to Plovdiv, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 63 miles
TIME: 4h 25m
CEG: 1101’
WEATHER: HOT! low 100s

This was a fairly easy day and welcomed by all. Everyone rode the whole
way – the first time in a long time! A pothole almost put Dan in the van
but Michele swapped wheels and he was back on route in short order.

We set out from Koprivshtitsa at 8am in clean, cool (67 degrees) mountain
air. We ascended 4 miles then descended 8 miles. I like those
proportions! The smooth road was interspersed with potholes, broken
pavement, and sand. I kept my speed in check --- which took some
discipline. Dan hit a pothole and damaged both wheels. Michele swapped
wheels and sent Dan on his way.

After we reached the valley floor, the route was flat and hot. I took
every opportunity to cool off in village fountains. Plovdiv is the
oldest town in Bulgaria and one of the oldest cities in the world. It was
built by the Romans in the 5th century BC. The ruins of the Roman
Amphitheater and Stadium are not far from our hotel.

Alec selected a lovely garden restaurant for our group dinner and arranged
for a folk group to entertain us. It was a wonderful way to end a treat
day of cycling.

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Saturday July 21, 2007

DATE: Saturday July 21, 2007
ROUTE: Sofia, Bulgaria to Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 67 miles
TIME: 6h 14m
CEG: 4130’
WEATHER: Hot high 90s

We left Sofia together. Monica mounted her red horse and the troops followed her orders without question… At one particularly bad intersection (6 roads converging, cars, busses, street cars, trucks, and pedestrians going every which way) she stopped traffic until all 16 of us made the U-turn bumping over tracks and potholes. It was a sight to behold! The rest of the day was easy by comparison.

After about 12 miles we veered off the main road and started through the rural farmland. In one of the first villages a note to Chantal was added to our arrow directions. The coffee machine had broken at the hotel this morning and we were all concerned lest Chantal go too long without her java jolt.

Today the weather was a bit cooler which helped everyone on the first long, long climb to the summit. I stopped at every creek, faucet, or fountain to dip my shirt and wet my head. The descent was quite spectacular and though it was hard to stop half way down at the monument, I’m glad we did. It had been dedicated just 2 days earlier by the Bulgarian president in honor of the leader of the revolutionaries who expelled the Huns from Bulgaria. Monica, Nancy, and I cooled off in the fresh cold spring water and tried to converse with the attendant. A carload of Bulgarian tourists pulled up and seemed more interested in my bike than the monument. They took many pictures of and with us while they chattered away.

Somewhere along the way, Monica hopped in the van to the hotel to take care of business and I got to ride the rest of the day with our new Italian addition, Stefania.

When we finally reached the valley floor, we stopped for water at a little market. While Stefania and I were waiting with the bikes, we were approached enthusiastically by a big-bellied Speedo-clad man riding a fully loaded bicycle. He had ridden from his home in Poland all the way to Israel and was now almost back home again. Pictures were taken --- but not until our new friend had unfolded his handy Polish Flag. By the way, the Speedo, in reality, was a pair of bike shorts that he pulles into normal position for the picture. He also put on his jersey … to maintain proper decorum, I presume.

Stefania and I climbed the last of the long hills together. A surprise awaited us at the top --- a pipe cascading icy mountain water. We walked in with no hesitation, shoes and all. Two men had set up a table in the shade across the highway and shared their watermelon with us. It was sweet and delicious. We doused ourselves a second time before we headed down hill.

Ten more miles of rollers and we were at the hotel. Koprivshtitsa is known for its traditional Bulgarian architecture and it has several 18th century homes open for viewing. By some stroke of luck, a folk festival was going on. The town was full of music, dancing, and people in traditional costumes. Because the town is at 3100’ in elevation, the temperature was a very pleasant 83 degrees. Dinner was delicious at a local restaurant.

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Friday July 20, 2007

 

DATE: Friday July 20,2007
ROUTE: Sofia, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: Rest Day
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER: HOT! 100s

The weather forecast predicts continued heat. The air conditioning in our 4 star hotel is not working. Our room is on the hot south side, 5th floor. It was 92 degrees last night when we tried to sleep. With the windows open all night it was down to 79 degrees this morning. The hotel has provided fans for the hot rooms. There are no rooms available on the cool side. The management promised that it will be working soon. They are giving us a buffet dinner tonight as an apology. I would prefer a good night’s sleep in a cool room!

Alec, our Bulgarian guide, took us to see the sights of central Sofia. They included Russian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Bulgarian Orthodox churches as well as a Roman church built in the 4th Century, a mosque and a synagogue. Sofia has some interesting and beautiful buildings, but no cohesive charm or central vitality. Construction is going on everywhere. Traffic is chaotic and the air is polluted. I’d like to return in 5 years and see how the city has evolved. Bulgaria just joined the EU on June 1st and I’m sure many things will change.

I returned to the hotel at noon, had a bite to eat, and spent the next couple of hours in the cool basement garage, cleaning my bicycle and helping a little with the others.

Last evening reinforcements arrived from Italy. Stefania joined the crew bringing energy, enthusiasm, experience, and underwear for Michele. Not a moment too soon!

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Thursday July 19, 2007

DATE: Thursday July 19, 2007
ROUTE: Montana, Bulgaria to Sofia, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 82 miles
TIME: 8h 45m
CEG: 5650’
WEATHER: HOT 100s

There are many benefits to being last --- solitude, no pressure to keep up, no group decisions. Today, I left about 10 minutes behind the pack (down to 9 riders due to heat and injuries) and was just starting up the first hill when I met Michele coming down. He was shouting “Bad road, bad road!”. I turned around immediately and for a few moments was at the head of the group. Thus another benefit: letting others test the waters. We diverted to an alternate road and were on our way.

It wasn’t long before I was enjoying the solitude of my own good company on a fresh Bulgarian morning. I was out of the city in just a few miles watching and listening as the rural scene awakened. Michele joined me as sweep and we silently pedaled over the hills. These are the sounds of early morning: roosters crowing, bells on livestock ringing, shepherds and goatherds whistling and crooning to their herds, insects buzzing, wagons groaning and creaking, wooden wheels clattering, dogs barking, and birds singing. As I listen, I concentrate on dodging coffin-sized potholes, swatting insects, finding the right gear, watching the scenery, and looking for places to cool off.

This was a big climbing day through the Balkan Mountains. I don’t mind climbing even though I am excruciatingly slow. I was in my lowest gear traveling at 3.4mph most of a 9 mile ascent. There was little traffic, pretty good road, and amazing views. I do love cycling in the mountains! Michele was very patient with my pace and enjoyed the vistas as mush as I. We both were exuberant after the 2200’ descent. The road surface and the hairpin turns kept my speed under 30mph. The Iskar River and an ice-cold spring awaited us on the valley floor.

We followed the Iskar River gorge through the mountains all the way to Sofia. It was a hilly route up and down the rock walls and, unfortunately, upstream. With about 22 miles left, Monica met us with fresh water and snacks. Michele road to town with Monica to get started on bike work and left me to sweep myself, a job made easier with Michele’s cell phone. Entry into Sofia was taxing with traffic, pollution, and bad roads. Not many of the group cycled the entire route today, and even fewer made it both yesterday and today. A lucky star continues to shine on me --- I’m still healthy and free of injuries.

I ended the day as I started --- in my own good company.

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Wednesday July 18, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday July 18, 2007
ROUTE: Vidin, Bulgaria to Montana, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 96 miles
TIME: 8h 56m
CEG: 4700’
WEATHER: HOT 100s

This is going to be short. I didn’t get to the hotel until 6pm and after showering, laundry, and eating, plus walking down and up 3 flights of stairs three extra times to get the internet code, the air conditioning control, and toilet paper, I’m tired! (oh, my aching knees!)

It was a long one today. Bulgaria is beautiful, hot, and hilly. No one expected such dazzling scenery, debilitating heat, or continuous climbing. Less than half of the group cycled the entire distance due to illness, injuries, or heat.

I started at 7:15am dressed for the desert --- long sleeved white shirt with my washcloth pinned around my neck. I carried lots of water plus an empty coke bottle that I used for wetting the washcloth. There are often communal fountains in the center of villages. I would fill up my bottle several times and completely soak my shirt and head. That’s how I made it.

This part of Bulgaria is very rural and sparsely populated. Much of the work is done by hand. I saw very few cars --- the roads are more often used for herding sheep, cows, and goats. Chickens, donkeys, horses, and dogs are also common sights. The few people I passed were curious but stoic. I had to initiate communication with a smile and a wave before there would be any response.

As often happens in my cycling, I started slowly in the morning, lost energy midday, and finished with strength and enthusiasm. I don’t know from where this “second wind” comes. But it sure comes in handy when it’s 3pm and I still have 30 miles to go!

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Tuesday July 17, 2007

DATE: Tuesday July 17, 2007
ROUTE: Portile de Fier, Romania to Vidin, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 73 miles
TIME: 5h 30m
CEG: 1400’
WEATHER: HOT low 100s

Odd and funny things happened today. I think the heat was affecting all of us --- including the Romanians. We left early in an attempt to get some miles covered in the cool, 75 degree morning. The first 12 miles were on a busy highway used by all sorts of vehicles, from huge semi trucks to wagons pulled by burros. When we turned south, we were told to expect a less busy road but one under heavy construction. The next 50 miles we dodged road crews that were digging, rolling, cutting, scraping, watering, filling and executing all other manner of road destruction and construction. In many, many places there was one lane traffic. In other places the shoulders were reduced to sand and the lanes very narrow. In spite of these challenges, our progress was strong and steady. As usual, Nancy and I were riding at the back of the pack with Monica sweeping.

My impression of Romanians is that they are effusive and exuberant --- at least with their reaction to my bike. Today the response was off the chart. All of the road workers, and there were many of them since much of the work is still done by hand, whistled, shouted and laughed as I cycled by. Shouts of “Buda, Buda” (Go for it!) followed me along. It was really quite incredible. The 3 of us labored up a very steep hill and stopped for water and a treat. We were immediately surrounded by a group of men, women, and children. They wanted to examine my bike closely and even touch it. The three of us became the center of attention --- Monica speaking Italian, Nancy speaking with her hands, and I speaking a little French and Spanish. They were speaking Romanian, of course.

We still had 12 miles to go to get to the ferry that would take us across the Danube to Bulgaria. It was really getting uncomfortably hot. Even wetting our heads gave us little relief. By the time we reached the ferry, all three of us were cooked. The ferry was no where in sight and almost all the other riders had caught the previous ferry. Monica suggested that we take a dip in the Danube, and Nancy and I thought this was a fine idea. We were able to find our sandals in the van and overlook all the obvious reasons not to go into the water --- pollution being first and foremost. It was cool and refreshing and crazy and fun!

The ferry ride was hot, crowded, and stinky; but mercifully short. Passport control was so quick and efficient that even though we cycled the last 4 miles to the hotel we beat the van. We have air conditioning and internet in our room. We can see the Danube from our window. Jane can watch CNN on the TV and I can catch a little of the Tour de France. Goodbye to Romania and welcome to Bulgaria!

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Monday July 16, 2007

 

DATE: Monday July 16, 2007
ROUTE: Radimna Village, Romania to Portile de Fier. Romania
DISTANCE: 83 miles
TIME: 6h 55m
CEG: 2193’
WEATHER: HOT! Low 100s

This is day I’d been anticipating since I signed up for the tour 6 months ago. I was not disappointed. We spent almost the entire day on the beautiful Danube River. The gorge is very much like the Columbia River Gorge separating Oregon and Washington. The steeper more dramatic side is in Serbia (former Yugoslavia) so I was very happy to stay at the water’s edge in Romania rather than climbing the bluffs we could see just across the river. The Danube flows through the gorge formed by the west end of the Transylvanian Alps and the smaller mountain range that connects with the Balkan Mountains to the south. This formation is known as the “Iron Gates” of the Danube..

We only climbed out of the gorge two times. Both ascents were in the afternoon during the high heat of the day. None of us has acclimated to this sudden change in temperature and I, for one, suffered. But it’s good to know that the sun block I have been slathering on religiously finally has some work to do.

As far as road conditions go, today we had everything. Good road, bad road, really bad road, good gravel, bad gravel and really bad gravel.. We’re all improving with our bicycle handling skills. Almost every bridge was under construction due to the devastating floods of the last two years. The traffic was light until the final 9 miles where we had to eke out our space amongst trucks, busses, and cars.

Our hotel is very comfortable with air conditioning and a view of the river. I only wish there were more than one computer for all the guests --- no wi-fi or ethernet for the 4 bloggers.

Thanks to Nancy for sharing her pictures.

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Sunday July 15, 2007

 

DATE: Sunday July 15, 2007
ROUTE: Timisoara, Romania to Radimna Village, Romania
DISTANCE: 90 miles
TIME: 6h 55m
CEG: 2610’
WEATHER: HOT! 90s

Today’s ride can be divided into three parts.

We left Timisoara under blue skies accompanied by a fresh, light breeze. Being Sunday, the traffic was light and it seemed we had the city to ourselves. The first 30 miles were on an excellent flat road with dismal scenery. Fallow fields were interspersed with fields of weeds and fields of stunted corn and sunflowers. I pedaled fast just to cover the miles.

The scenery became more interesting when we got to Moravita, right on the Serbian border. We turned east and followed the border for about 40 miles through rolling hills and productive farms. However, the road conditions deteriorated considerably, as did my speed. I took out my camera to snap a picture and found that the battery had not re-charged in the outlet last night. Nancy offered to take pictures with her camera and share them with me. It’s a good thing she’d so generous because by this time we were far behind the pack in our usual position.

The final 20 miles cut through the high hills of southwest Romania. We had one big climb of 3 miles which wouldn’t have been too hard except for the heat. I had to stop to after 2 miles to cool off. My computer noted the temperature at 94 degrees. There was no breeze but every other switchback had us in the shade. We ended the day with a 3 mile descent. This would have been great fun except the road conditions had me braking to keep my speed under 30 mph.

We were told that this hotel was the only one in the area that could accommodate our group --- and not to expect too much. No internet or air conditioning for sure. All I cared about was having a cold beverage and a warm shower. I got both --- plus a hearty greeting by the resident pigs.

Thanks to Nancy for sharing her pictures.

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Saturday July 14, 2007

 

DATE: July 14, 2007
ROUTE: Timisoara, Romania
DISTANCE: Rest Day
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER:

We started the day with a city walk. Alex, our Hungarian guide, took us to the major squares, the medieval wall, and several places of worship. Our hotel is not even a block. away from Victory Square, the site of the demonstration of the Romanian people against the Soviet Regime. Many lost their lives in this uprising. After our walk, we enjoyed the produce and flower markets. There was also time to do laundry, read, and rest.

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Friday July 13, 2007

 

DATE: Friday July 13, 2007
ROUTE: Mako, Hungary to Timisoara, Romania
DISTANCE: 57 miles
TIME: 3h 45m
CEG: 233’
WEATHER: perfect

Three beautiful days in a row --- a record!

And speaking of records, in Phase 2, from Warsaw to Timisoara, we cycled 818 miles in 13 days. As far as weather goes, we’re even with 7 rainy days and 7 sunny days. Totals are: 27 cycling days, 1649 miles, 15 inclement days, 12 sunny days.

We presented Chantal with her bicycle at breakfast and sang Happy Birthday. She was very surprised and decided to see how far the decorations would last. To our amazement, they made it all the way!

We said goodbye to Adrienne, our Hungarian guide, who will return to her home and family in Budapest.

Today we cycled only 6 miles before crossing into Romania. We stayed on the same road all day which made it very easy for the arrow scouts and even easier for us. We noticed an immediate change when we entered Romania, and it wasn’t the road conditions. The road was smooth, straight, and flat. We all prefer roads with shoulders but we’re used to sharing the road and the traffic, at first, was light and polite. The difference was the garbage. We haven’t seen roadside litter anywhere in Eastern Europe. Today the road was littered all the way to Timisoara and there were places where people had dumped piles of garbage. We passed fields of sunflowers followed by fields of weeds. This country has suffered terribly from the government policies and is just emerging from poverty and heartache. You can see it on the faces of the people --- resilience and determination.

The traffic increased as we approached Timisoara, made more difficult by laboring trucks, broken-down cars, slow farm equipment, and impatient drivers. Nancy and I entered the city together, and often walked our bicycles through dangerous intersections.

Our hotel is in a great location just off the main square. We walked to dinner at a nearby restaurant and enjoyed a fabulous meal. We said goodbye to Damiano, who has ridden many miles with me as sweep, and hello to Alex, our new Romanian guide.

Tomorrow we get to see the city.

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Thursday July 12. 2007

 

DATE: Thursday July 12, 2007
ROUTE: Csongrad, Hungary to Mako, Hungary
DISTANCE: 53 miles
TIME: 3h 40m
CEG: 149’
WEATHER: perfect, again!

Gosh! Two perfect days in a row! I think of these as recovery days reminding all of us why we love to cycle. No worries about the weather, the road, or the distance. We were just giddy kids.

The first 10 miles were on a bike path, half of which was on top of the levee next to the Tisla River. The temperature was perfect, the breeze dancing in the trees, and the sun sparkling on the water. The rest of the day alternated between bike paths and quiet roads. The villages were full of people of all ages on bicycles. There are very few cars in rural Hungary.

I arrived in Mako at 1:00pm. We are staying in a fancy youth hostel that seems very much like a dormitory. I quickly found my room then headed downtown. Mako is the birthplace of Joseph Pulitzer and I wanted to find a statue or some kind of memorial to him. Bill (bikingwithbill.org) and I have been dueling bloggers on two trips --- the Mississippi River Ride in 2005 and this one. Our friendly rivalry has resulted in a daily Pulitzer award for journalism and photography. Each of us has our fans and we take pleasure in reading and commenting on each other’s daily log. Visiting the birthplace of Pulitzer himself had us preparing acceptance speeches and picking out our clothes for the awards ceremony. In our hostel we found a portrait of Joseph Pulitzer painted by none other than John Singer Sargent. What a perfect place to accept my award!

After most of the group had retired to their rooms, Nancy, Jane, and I met to decorate Chantal’s bicycle. Tomorrow (Friday the 13th!) is her birthday and we wanted to make it a memorable occasion.

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Wednesday July 11, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday July 11, 2007
ROUTE: Szolnok, Hungary to Csongrad, Hungary
DISTANCE: 46 miles
TIME: 3h 25m
CEG: 297’
WEATHER: sunny 70s

Well, we deserved it: sunshine and a short, flat route. Throw in a ferry ride as a bonus and you have a mighty fine day! We rode past fields of corn and sunflowers. Nancy insisted that I post a picture of me on my Lightning P-38 thinking some of you out there don’t know what I look like cycling down the road. Dan the Van Man emerged from the SAG wagon and tested his ankle. He had a good ride and is hoping to get stronger every day. Our hotel is rather strange but totally intriguing. The host and hostess greeted us personally and plan an outdoor feast for dinner tonight. The goulash looks pretty darn good!

I will just admit that the story I am about to tell pales in comparison to what actually took place. But I will attempt to give an accurate, though condensed version of the events that will surely become ExperiencePlus lore for years to come.

Desperately Seeking Underwear

Starring Michele Boglioni and Monica Malpezzi Price

The story so far: As you may recall, Michele had his suitcase stolen in Warsaw. He was left with the clothes on his back … which happened to be only suited for cycling. If you haven’t figured it out yet, Michele and Monica are sweethearts. They not only look after us, but also imbue the group with the sweetness of young love. Conveniently, they are also nearly the same size. As only could be expected, Monica loaned Michele the clothes he needed until they could go shopping. She only balked at loaning him her underwear. A lover’s quarrel? Of course not! How could Monica refuse Michele’s impassioned request and desperate need. Michele would wear feminine underwear just until they could remedy the situation. Easier said than done. You have seen in previous posts the pictures of Michele struttin’ his stuff in his new duds. What you cannot possibly know is that he could not find underwear to his liking. “Too expensive” Michele would say day after day. I, for one, wondered what discussions were taking place behind closed doors. I stopped asking after about a week thinking that there may be things about Michele better left unknown.

Now … the final episode: As you can see from the pictures of our dinner last night, everyone was having a wonderful time. Wine and schnapps were part of the great goulash feast. In an unbridled moment, I asked the question that had been plaguing me for weeks: “Michele, whose underwear are you wearing tonight?” With a devilish smile, he told the story of finally finding and buying underwear. It involved roadblocks at every turn. Monica supported him every step of the way. I will not dilute their story by trying to retell it here. Just let me conclude that Michele is a persistent and intrepid shopper, and Monica will be nominated for sainthood soon. The evidence of his success is clear in the accompanying photo. Monica has her intimate apparel back --- maybe just a little worse for the wear.

Thanks to Rick and David for sharing their pictures

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Tuesday July 10, 2007

 

DATE: Tuesday July 10, 2007
ROUTE: Budapest/Godollo to Szolnok
DISTANCE: 76 miles
TIME: 5h 31m
CEG: 981’
WEATHER: rain, drizzle, rain, drizzle, and overcast

We got off to a late, late start. We loaded the bus with our baggage and gear and left Budapest at 8:15am. We arrived back at our previous hotel at about 9:00 to make our lunches, transfer people and luggage to the van, and fetch our bicycles. It was raining. While waiting for the extra bikes to get loaded on top of the van, we found Chinese decorations in the garbage --- left overs for the precious hotel owner. There are those who tried to attach a dragon to my fairing, but they were unsuccessful. The van was bursting at the seams with the sick, injured, and sick-of-riding-in-the-rain group. We finally departed Godollo at 10:30.

I much prefer to get an earlier start but today was supposedly a “Jane-Day” (a metric century, Jane's favorite) so I had little concern about when I would get to the hotel. We were also assured that we really would be riding on the flat Hungarian Plain after the first 6 miles. I figured I'd be in by 3:30pm. We started in rain. Barely 2 miles from the hotel David, Nancy, and I were stopped at our first of four train crossings. This put a large gap between us and the rest of the group. The rain continued steadily for 30 miles. It rained hard enough to wash the arrows from the streets. We had to rely on our map and on the kindness of Hungarian speaking strangers. We didn’t wander far astray, but it took a considerable amount of time to stop, refer to our maps, ask for assistance, and determine our direction. It was also hard to make good time picking your path through pot holes, cracked pavement, and road debris. Michele had to have 6 wheels trued in Budapest due to the terrible condition of some of the roads. And we have yet to ride in Romania and Bulgaria --- reported to have the worst roads in all Eastern Europe!

At 1:40 we stopped at a convenience store and ate our sandwiches. The rain stopped and it looked like it would hold off for the remainder of the day. I was sopping wet and looked forward to getting dry and getting warm. We tried to call Monica to let her know our position but our new Hungarian phone numbers would not work. The next 48 miles were flat, fast, and uneventful. About 20 miles from the hotel we started finding arrows again. The crew had gone out and put new ones on the last part of the route. Just as we entered the city, and just as my energy was flagging, who should appear but an angel in the form of Kathie --- greeting us with a smile and pointing us to the hotel. David, Nancy, and I were given a hearty welcome and a mug of beer.

I ended my day with a very relaxing massage. Now to bed.

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Monday July 9, 2007

 

DATE: Monday July 9, 2007
ROUTE: Rest Day in Budapest
DISTANCE:
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER: sunny and humid 80s

Budapset. What a city!

We started the day in Godollo with breakfast and packing. We were all very excited to get in to this mythical city. Adrienne, our guide in Hungary, told us some of the history and pointed out several sights along the way. We toured Parliament, checked into our hotel, and enjoyed a short walking tour with Adrienne. Our hotel is perfectly located in the middle of the Palace Hill district right across from Mathias Church.

In the afternoon I did the usual rest day stuff: lunch, postcards, laundry, blog, and exploring. We gathered again at 7 to ride the bus and tram down to the river for our dinner cruise. Usually I don’t enjoy these cheesey tourist things expecting lousy food and trinket sales. This cruise exceed all our expectations! We had the boat to ourselves, the food was excellent, and we got to see the lights of Budapest from the serene Danube River.

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Sunday July 8, 2007

 

DATE: Sunday July 8, 2007
ROUTE: Byele Vody, Slovakia to Godolla, Hungary
DISTANCE: 99 miles
TIME: 8h 40m
CEG: 4706
WEATHER: chilly in the morning, 80s in the afternoon

This was supposed to be a long but easy day. We were all pretty excited to settle in to a nice hotel for 2 days and explore Budapest. So we set out with light hearts ready to tackle our one big climb followed by rollers, ending with the flat Hungarian plain.

Let me take a moment to tell you about how an Expedition differs from the regular tours offered by ExperiencePlus. Many of the daily routes have not been personally ridden or driven. Many of the hotels have been chosen by recommendation of local guides or selected through internet research, but not personally inspected. We all knew this when we signed up for this tour. We all knew we needed an adventurous spirit and a flexible attitude. So far we’ve experienced a wide variety of accommodations and food. We’ve been paupers and we’ve been royalty. This suits me just fine!

OK. Back to today. The first and only (so we thought) climb was long but beautiful. But where were the rollers? And where was that elusive summit? When we had a well-deserved descent, the road conditions were so terrible that our hand ached from braking. The information Monica had was erroneous. But we were assured by Ondrej, our Slovakian guide (mind you that he left us at the border), that the great Hungarian plain stretched out in front of us and the last 50 miles would be flat. Wrong again! Up, down, up, down all the way. For some reason, the weariness that plagued me in the morning evaporated. After lunch and our border crossing, my normal energy returned and I felt strong. Good thing because the next 50 miles took 4 more hours of steady pedaling.

Our hotel was a big surprise. The location was lousy and the accommodations sub-standard. It turns out that the hotel had changed ownership just 2 months ago (news to Monica) and that the girl at the desk had just started to work here 3 hours ago. Things were sub-standard --- especially for a two night stay. Bill did not even have soap in his bathroom --- and went searching in a pink towel. Monica bought everyone a warm beer (no ice or refrigeration) and found us a hotel in downtown Budapest. We sleep here tonight and move tomorrow. Yea!

Thanks to Fritz for sharing his pictures.

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Saturday June 7, 2007

 

DATE: Saturday July 7, 2007
ROUTE: Liptovsky Jan to Byele Vody, Slovakia
DISTANCE: 56 miles
TIME: 6h 25m
CEG: 5527’
WEATHER: beautiful

Sun and a tailwind. Sun and a tailwind. I wrote it twice because I didn’t think you’d believe your eyes.

This was to be our biggest climbing day of the tour, and it was. I left early to get a little jump on the group. That way we wouldn’t be so spread out on the route and more difficult for the van and the sweep to support. I loved being at the head of the pack --- even for an hour --- and being the first to see the day unfold.

Two major climbs faced us, plus a “little” ascent the last 3.5 miles up to a ski lodge. The road was smooth and the scenery beautiful. I really love riding in the mountains --- especially on a gorgeous day. The first ascent was long but satisfying. By the time I made the summit, I was in my normal position: last. I do not mind being at the end as long as I am not holding the group back or making extra work for the crew. The second ascent was shorter but more difficult. Maybe the slope was steeper or maybe my energy was flagging. But I knew I would finish in fine shape because there was just that pesky hill at the end. I reassured myself, “anyone can do 3.5 miles”.

Here is a description of the last hill, and my biking friends in Sisters will get a vivid picture: Three Creeks above the snow gate plus a 22% corner ala Barkley Drive plus a one-lane road sprinkled liberally with pot holes, cracks, and gravel. We all had the option to shuttle up in the van. But I was feeling good and didn’t really know what lay ahead. It took me over an hour. I had to stop for a GU moment and a good drink of water. The sound of the wind in the trees and a racing brook kept me company. Monica (sweep that day) overtook me and I told her to surge ahead (like anyone could surge!). In jest I said, “lay out the red carpet --- I’ll be along eventually.” Meanwhile at the top, our romantic ski lodge turned out to be a a bare-bones dormitory. Some of the rooms were lacking the bare necessities. The pictures tell of my arrival. Rick was kind enough to wad up the toilet paper finish line telling me that this was my allotment for our stay.

Thanks to Fritz for sharing his pictures.

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Friday July 6, 2007

DATE: Friday July 6, 2007
ROUTE: Spisska Stara Ves to Liptovsky Jan
DISTANCE: 67 miles
TIME: 6h 50m
CEG: 4700’
WEATHER: overcast, drizzle, rain, wind, one sun ray

This was a hard day for me. It wasn’t the climb or the distance. It wasn’t the cold or the rain. It was the wind: tormenting, debilitating, relentless. The two ascents would have been challenging under the best of circumstances. But with a 35-40mph wind, it was a sometimes a struggle to stay on the road. I spent a lot of time under 5mph. If it hadn’t been for the gorgeous scenery, this would have been a discouraging day.

The talk at dinner was about our encounter with the gypsies. We passed through a gypsy village on the lower slopes early in our route. By that time I was the last of the group and essentially alone. I knew almost immediately that the people of this village were very different than any we had previously encountered. The inhabitants were all in their yards or in the street in spite of the drizzle. The men looked menacing, the women looked disapproving, and the children were wild and undisciplined. I went through the village as fast as I could, though the road was ascending and I could only muster about 8mph. I was shocked to hear Jane’s story when I finally made it to the hotel. She had been accosted by a band of 12 children. They unzipped her bike pack and took her camera, money, credit card, banana, and Snickers Bar. She got off her bicycle and somehow got them to return her camera and her credit card. Mary and Bill also had encounters --- Mary was pushed off her bicycle and Bill had is tool kit taken. I don’t know how or why I made it through the gauntlet unscathed. Ondrej and Monica tell us that integrating the gypsies is a huge problem in Eastern Europe, especially in Slovakia and Hungary. If we cycle through more gypsy villages, we will try not to attract their attention and try to stay in groups.

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Thursday July 5, 2007

 

DATE: Thursday July 5, 2007
ROUTE: Krakow, Poland to Spisska Stara Ves, Slovakia
DISTANCE: 79 miles
TIME: 7h
CEG: 4350’
WEATHER: drizzle, rain, sun

I called Jon first thing this morning to wish him Happy Anniversary --- our 23rd. It was still July 4th on the West Coast but I was not sure if I would have internet in Slovakia and I had a phone card good only in Poland. It was a great way to start the day. It is also the anniversary of Kathie and Rick Myerberg --- their 38th. As Rick says, Jon and I haven’t even done a marathon yet.

Then it was a clothing exchange at breakfast. The laundry service that washed all our clothes meticulously double-stapled numbered papers to each item of clothing. In spite of this, we all were missing some of our stuff. Bill had one of my gloves, and I had one of his socks.

I have neglected telling you about the breakfasts that greet us every morning. There is the usual array of cereals, breads, yogurts, juices, eggs, and sausages that you would expect. But there is also a wide variety of salads, cold cuts, and desserts. Holiday Inn Express should take note!

Our route started immediately with a climb, and we kept climbing for 45 miles. We will cross the Carpathian Range during the next three days. The great surprise was that it wasn’t raining! At mile 42 our luck ran out and for the ensuing 30 miles it was: coat on, coat off, hood up, hood down. I enjoyed the 12 mile down hill to the valley floor. The final segment of our route was on a walking/cycling trail along the river through the Pieninski National Park. This park is managed by both Poland and Slovakia. The border crossing is on the bike trail and it was really amazing to have the guards laughing and working together. And even more amazing, the sun came out when we entered Slovakia!

In my hotel room I found a bottle of champagne and anniversary wishes from Monica. Have I said how great this tour company is? Jane stood in for Jon at our anniversary toast. Rick continued the celebration by providing more champagne for the whole group.

We met Daniano yesterday evening who just arrived from Italy. He will work with Monica and Michele to keep us all happy and safe. This afternoon we met Ondrej, our guide through Slovakia. He not only interprets for us but also tells us the history and lore of his country.

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Wednesday July 4, 2007

 

DATE: Wednesday July 4, 2007
ROUTE: Rest Day Krakow
DISTANCE:
TIME:
CEG:
WEATHER:

Our day started with a brief lecture by Anna, our Krakow guide. Krakow is the only town in Poland not destroyed during WWII because the Nazis chose this beautiful city for their headquarters. In spite of the rain, I enjoyed our 2 hour walking tour.

I spent part of the afternoon wandering around Old Town and part of it wandering around an ultra-modern mall. I found just what I was looking for: energy bars and tights for the predicted cold, wet conditions. Tomorrow we head for the mountains and inclement weather. We are all getting pretty good at “suiting” up: plastic bags and showercaps keep us on the best-dressed list.

Monica and Michele found a laundry that would take care of our clothes … at least we will start tomorrow clean and dry.



Oh, I almost forgot. Happy 4th of July!

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Tuesday July 3, 2007

DATE: Tuesday July 3, 2007
ROUTE: Busko Zdroj
DISTANCE: 75 miles
TIME: 6h 15m
CEG: 3000’
WEATHER: rain then sun

This was a day of mishaps. We left in the rain, though it was light at this time. There was a truck stopped in the middle of the road. I put my brakes on quickly to avoid the impending collision and slipped on a patch of oil. Bam! I was down before I even knew it was slippery. It was a fortunate fall because I landed where I have the most padding --- but I also knocked my knee pretty hard on the stem and took a blow on my upper back from the top of the seat. This is my first fall with no rode rash. When I hit the oil slick I just kept sliding with my bike. That was in the first mile.

Then it started raining in earnest. I stopped to zip up and put my hood up. It looked like it would be a long day. Little did I know how long it would be. It was raining so hard that the arrows carefully put on the road by Seco were fading away. At one point Jane, Nancy, and I stopped at an intersection without a clue as to which way to go. Our map was no help since our route was on such tiny roads that the map did not show them. At that moment the van came along and pointed out the way. They intended go ahead and draw new arrows if necessary.

I’m not sure how I got off course. I’m pretty good at finding the arrows. They are, after all, our lifeline to food, a shower, and a soft bed. Monica surmises I took a wrong turn where a bus was parked on a critical arrow. Chantal had made the same mistake earlier but had been saved by Monica and the van. It doesn’t really matter how it happened. I meandered through the countryside climbing up hill and down. For awhile I didn’t worry --- I knew I was at the end of the group and I figured the arrows had been washed off by the rain. I had written on a scrap of paper the name of the one town we were to pass through on the way to Krakow. I asked several people, (me speaking English, they speaking Polish), and I was assured I was heading the correct direction. I figured that when I arrived in Skalbmierz I would find the arrows and get back on track. It had stopped raining and the appearance of the sun was a heartening sign.

When I finally arrived at the village, it was harder than I had predicted. There were many roads from which to choose. I was approaching a Kiosk to ask for assistance when a delivery truck pulled up. The driver hopped out, noticed my bicycle, and came over to me talking in Polish asking (I assume) about my bicycle. I dug out my “Useful numbers in Poland” sheet which also contains some useful phrases. I pointed to “ prosze mi pomoc” and “Prosze zadzwonic do pilota”. [Please help me. Please call my tour leader.} He gave me a concerned look and whipped out his cell phone. I was soon talking with Michele. They’d been looking for me and were relieved to hear my voice. Likewise! We were only 2 blocks apart, and after a happy reunion, Michele and I cycled in to Krakow while the van zoomed ahead to get the luggage to the hotel. It was only noon and I had plenty of time to cycle the remaining 35 miles.
Rick snapped my picture as I entered the hotel. I rode 15 extra miles today, up and down, up and down. The flat days are over. We head in to the High Tatra Mountains when we leave Krakow. But for now, dinner awaits and tomorrow we have a rest day to explore this beautiful city.

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Monday July 2, 2007

 

DATE: Monday July 2, 2007
ROUTE: Sandomiertz, Poland to Busko Zdroj, Poland
DISTANCE: 65 miles
TIME: 5h 12m
CEG: 1500’
WEATHER: overcast and rain

Sunshine to start, sprinkles at 10 miles, rain at 20, sprinkles at 40, overcast at 50, sunshine at 60. By the time I arrived at the hotel, I was almost dried out --- though both my bike and I were filthy with mud and road grunge. We cycled through more orchards and fields of fruits and vegetables. We passed through more villages today and had more car traffic on the roads. It’s evident that we’re getting closer to Krakow.

The Polish language is unfathomable. It has more letters than the English alphabet and the pronunciation is completely crazy. Too many consonants! I say hello every chance I get --- and I get plenty of opportunities because so many people stop and stare as I cycle past. Here’s the phonetic pronunciation: “gin dobray”. Here’s how it is spelled: “dzien dobry”. The picture of the room instructions means, “Please turn off the lights and close the windows when you leave the room”.

We have very nice accommodations with a balcony for drying our clothes. I wonder what’s for dinner.

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Sunday July 1, 2007

 

DATE: Sunday July 1, 2007
ROUTE: Kazimierz nad Wisla, Poland to Sandomierz, Poland
DISTANCE: 57 miles
TIME: 3h 40m
CEG: 1400’
WEATHER: perfect 70s

Great day! Monica, who has been driving the van for the last two weeks nursing a cold and an infection, finally felt good enough to ride. It was great for Nancy and me to have her ride with us as sweep. And what a glorious day for her to get back on the bike! The sky had high clouds with the sun breaking through every now and then. We were not too hot and we didn’t worry about rain.

The route took us through the “fruit basket” of Poland. We pedaled past apple and cherry orchards, raspberry fields, and plots of hops. Sunday morning in Poland has everyone dressing up and walking, riding, or driving to church. Some churches broadcast their service outside and we would round a corner and hear singing or a sermon.

For the first time our route consisted of rollers and a couple of steep, short hills. It was a lovely Sunday cycle.

The town of Sandomierz was built in Medieval times and many of the original buildings are still in use. It is a charming place to spend the late afternoon and evening.

And, wonder of wonders, my package arrived! Seco picked it up at FexEx in Warsaw after it was finally released from Customs. He had to pay a $40 fee for some inexplicable reason but I’m not complaining. I gladly reimbursed him and now have my sun pants and sun shirt in case we get more days like the last two.

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