Friday July 27, 2007

 

DATE: Friday July 27, 2007
ROUTE: Vize, Turkey to Kumkoy, Turkey
DISTANCE: 80 miles
TIME: 7h 55m
CEG: 5000’
WEATHER: 85 degrees moderate head/cross winds

This was the best riding day of the trip. The wind was still when I departed at 6:30am. When it started to ruffle the trees there was intermittent protection. The temperatures did not get above the mid 80s. The scenery was varied and stunning. What a way to end our expedition!

I climbed most of the morning --- some ascending rollers, some major hills, and some wicked knobs. Stefania joined me as sweep at about 8:00am. She is great company.
We met two French cyclists just starting out their journey from Istanbul to Paris. Stefania stopped to compare routes and I continued on, knowing she would catch me soon. I stopped at a corner near a little store to wait for her --- intending to have a drink and a snack when she showed up. A young boy approached me with a bottle of water --- sent out by the store proprietor. He would not let me pay. As I continued to wait for Stefania, the proprietor came out of his store and led me to a table and chair in the shade. He invited me to sit down and wait in comfort. Since I know only 2 words in Turkish (hello and thank you), we were communicating with gestures. I sat down, and he placed a rose in front of me. When Stefania arrived, he brought her water and a rose as well. We were both very touched by his generosity.

The next portion of the route was tough --- but elating. We climbed some more and after I crested a long hill, I got my first glimpse of the Black Sea. What a thrill! Stefania received a phone call with some disappointing news: Monica was pulling all of us off the road at the 80 mile mark due to dangerous traffic. They would shuttle us the final 20 miles into Kumkoy. Since the van can only carry 5 passengers at a time, Stefania and I decided to ride as far as was safe and wait for the van to return from its first trip. We discovered the traffic problem --- a huge construction project involving 200 or more dump trucks (all new) driving both directions at breakneck speeds on our narrow, peaceful, beautiful road. We found out later that an entire hillside was being reshaped for a housing development. The trucks are paid by the load and we witnessed many instances of trucks vying for the best position. Beside the road, herds of water buffalo grazed untethered on what could easily be their last meal. A cow wandered out in the road and narrowly missed being hit. A car was not so fortunate. It was a monster truck derby for real.

Stefania and I found a place to wait for the van outside a modest little bar in a tiny quiet village made chaotic and filthy by the truck activity. Once again, we were welcomed by the proprietor with water, Coke, and tea --- all delivered by a young boy. We were not allowed to pay.

We finally arrived in Kumkoy at 6:30pm. Our hotel was in a great location, perched on a hill above the Black Sea. After dinner we walked down through this throbbing beach town for a little wading in the water. On the return, I spotted a vendor who had Diet Coke. I remembered, too late, that I had left my money in the hotel. No one else had money either. The young man insisted that I take the Diet Coke anyway.

Later, I asked our guide about the astounding generosity of the Turkish people. For the last 5 days all of us have continuously received enthusiastic support from the people we pass. We are welcomed as if we are long lost family finally coming home. We have been invited to share food and drink with complete strangers. Sahli explained that, especially in the small villages, the people are honored to receive travelers. Allah has caused our paths to cross, and they are pleased to make our journey more comfortable. Most villages still have guest quarters above the village coffee house. It is offered to those who are passing through needing a place to sleep.

This is truly an exotic and wonderful country.

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