Tuesday July 17, 2007

DATE: Tuesday July 17, 2007
ROUTE: Portile de Fier, Romania to Vidin, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 73 miles
TIME: 5h 30m
CEG: 1400’
WEATHER: HOT low 100s

Odd and funny things happened today. I think the heat was affecting all of us --- including the Romanians. We left early in an attempt to get some miles covered in the cool, 75 degree morning. The first 12 miles were on a busy highway used by all sorts of vehicles, from huge semi trucks to wagons pulled by burros. When we turned south, we were told to expect a less busy road but one under heavy construction. The next 50 miles we dodged road crews that were digging, rolling, cutting, scraping, watering, filling and executing all other manner of road destruction and construction. In many, many places there was one lane traffic. In other places the shoulders were reduced to sand and the lanes very narrow. In spite of these challenges, our progress was strong and steady. As usual, Nancy and I were riding at the back of the pack with Monica sweeping.

My impression of Romanians is that they are effusive and exuberant --- at least with their reaction to my bike. Today the response was off the chart. All of the road workers, and there were many of them since much of the work is still done by hand, whistled, shouted and laughed as I cycled by. Shouts of “Buda, Buda” (Go for it!) followed me along. It was really quite incredible. The 3 of us labored up a very steep hill and stopped for water and a treat. We were immediately surrounded by a group of men, women, and children. They wanted to examine my bike closely and even touch it. The three of us became the center of attention --- Monica speaking Italian, Nancy speaking with her hands, and I speaking a little French and Spanish. They were speaking Romanian, of course.

We still had 12 miles to go to get to the ferry that would take us across the Danube to Bulgaria. It was really getting uncomfortably hot. Even wetting our heads gave us little relief. By the time we reached the ferry, all three of us were cooked. The ferry was no where in sight and almost all the other riders had caught the previous ferry. Monica suggested that we take a dip in the Danube, and Nancy and I thought this was a fine idea. We were able to find our sandals in the van and overlook all the obvious reasons not to go into the water --- pollution being first and foremost. It was cool and refreshing and crazy and fun!

The ferry ride was hot, crowded, and stinky; but mercifully short. Passport control was so quick and efficient that even though we cycled the last 4 miles to the hotel we beat the van. We have air conditioning and internet in our room. We can see the Danube from our window. Jane can watch CNN on the TV and I can catch a little of the Tour de France. Goodbye to Romania and welcome to Bulgaria!

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