Saturday July 21, 2007

DATE: Saturday July 21, 2007
ROUTE: Sofia, Bulgaria to Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria
DISTANCE: 67 miles
TIME: 6h 14m
CEG: 4130’
WEATHER: Hot high 90s

We left Sofia together. Monica mounted her red horse and the troops followed her orders without question… At one particularly bad intersection (6 roads converging, cars, busses, street cars, trucks, and pedestrians going every which way) she stopped traffic until all 16 of us made the U-turn bumping over tracks and potholes. It was a sight to behold! The rest of the day was easy by comparison.

After about 12 miles we veered off the main road and started through the rural farmland. In one of the first villages a note to Chantal was added to our arrow directions. The coffee machine had broken at the hotel this morning and we were all concerned lest Chantal go too long without her java jolt.

Today the weather was a bit cooler which helped everyone on the first long, long climb to the summit. I stopped at every creek, faucet, or fountain to dip my shirt and wet my head. The descent was quite spectacular and though it was hard to stop half way down at the monument, I’m glad we did. It had been dedicated just 2 days earlier by the Bulgarian president in honor of the leader of the revolutionaries who expelled the Huns from Bulgaria. Monica, Nancy, and I cooled off in the fresh cold spring water and tried to converse with the attendant. A carload of Bulgarian tourists pulled up and seemed more interested in my bike than the monument. They took many pictures of and with us while they chattered away.

Somewhere along the way, Monica hopped in the van to the hotel to take care of business and I got to ride the rest of the day with our new Italian addition, Stefania.

When we finally reached the valley floor, we stopped for water at a little market. While Stefania and I were waiting with the bikes, we were approached enthusiastically by a big-bellied Speedo-clad man riding a fully loaded bicycle. He had ridden from his home in Poland all the way to Israel and was now almost back home again. Pictures were taken --- but not until our new friend had unfolded his handy Polish Flag. By the way, the Speedo, in reality, was a pair of bike shorts that he pulles into normal position for the picture. He also put on his jersey … to maintain proper decorum, I presume.

Stefania and I climbed the last of the long hills together. A surprise awaited us at the top --- a pipe cascading icy mountain water. We walked in with no hesitation, shoes and all. Two men had set up a table in the shade across the highway and shared their watermelon with us. It was sweet and delicious. We doused ourselves a second time before we headed down hill.

Ten more miles of rollers and we were at the hotel. Koprivshtitsa is known for its traditional Bulgarian architecture and it has several 18th century homes open for viewing. By some stroke of luck, a folk festival was going on. The town was full of music, dancing, and people in traditional costumes. Because the town is at 3100’ in elevation, the temperature was a very pleasant 83 degrees. Dinner was delicious at a local restaurant.

more pictures